In my opinion if you wanting to stay stock, pull the head and that 20year old HG, goto toyota order a new one.
Install it properly, and torque it down to 70-80lbs, ARP's would be a good idea also.
Theres plent of guys who have done what i just listed and exceeded 350-400hp for a long time...
If your BOV is vented to atmosphere, and your driving then suddenly switch to neutral and let go of the gas
yes your idle will drop below normal and bounce, this is just one of the bad things about venting to atmosphere for that
swoosh sound and not having a full standalone...
Lol i had a recent thread about that...
The bolt just keeps tightening, and tightening. Not like a stripped thread where it gets
tight then loose tight then loose... But it just keeps getting tighter, i've had it tq'd well over the TSRM spec
and i dont wanna go any further, last thing i...
I need to turn the crank in order to turn the flywheel which is bolted to the clutch
so i can turn the clutch and get all the bolts tightened...
Did that make sense lol? almost doesn't to me.
Thankfully i've got my transmission and motor hooked up now but my clutch isnt bolted to the...
Thats kinda hard to believe.
How do you know it didn't already do 270-277 on the dyno?
The 7M can be completely stock and if you just have the head ported/polished, Oil system shimmed,
ct26 shimmed, and maintained very well its not a problem at all to pull 300hp with nothing aftermarket.
Ok so i've got my motor almost ready to drop in, installed my
aftermarket clutch onto the flywheel and tq spec'd it etc etc.
I've got my motor hoisted up and my tranny on a jack for mobility.
Greese up the spindle and try to slide the transmission on and it only goes so far
and just wont...
Taking off the Harness while its still in the car and on the motor is a complete hassle...
Is there a reason your not pulling it with the engine? Its much easier lol, all you do is remove it from the firewall
and 1-2 clips then it comes righ tout with the motor.
But yes as the other...
Lol EGR problem man, idk about the whole windows/horn thing but its obvious you messed with
some kind of wireing and its just something little.
but for your idle problem yes its because you took out the EGR.
In order to remove the egr completely you have 2 options, Either use block off...
My thoughts exactly, BUT after i got done with that i wasnt able to turn it i went
on to something else and that was installing my flywheel, so i was putting on the flywheel,
lined it up and started tightning my ARP's. && the flywheel turned rather easily...
So atleast now i know its...
About to drop the motor in, was installing the bolts on my clutch that bolt up
to the flywheel and i needed to turn the motor a few times.
I started tightning the crank bolt and it just keep getting tighter and tigher
and i mean im tightning this thing will all my might and it just will not...
I mean yes it does sound almost exactly like a timing problem
but it could be a few other things, check "all" of the vac lines.
Does your turbo have any shaft play?
Does the shaft spin freely?
While the car is running open the hood and listen for any
whistling noises or just wierd noises...
First time installing a clutch but i highly doubt im doing something wrong? slide it on, then slide the clutch fork into
place, spin it and clink clink clink.
Also, with the center release bearing on the Pressure plate it kinda moves around if i put some pressure on it, is this normal?
So i bought the Spec Stage2 clutch from DM which came with the
OEM Clutch disk, i was currently in the middle of installing it and when i
put the clutch in and spin it, the outer clutch hits the Bellhousing?!
Is this normal? i pulled out my dremel and kinda made my own little grooves...
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