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Maybe the turbo rad is different from N/A? I just installed a new Koyo last week and it fit perfect.

Is there a SIGN posted at the old address with the new address? This is SO last minute, that there is bound to be a few people going to the wrong address!!

I think he had bushings made to replace the spherical bearings, which are not supposed to be bushings. (part 42210 I think?) I also think Nashman had to machine down one pair of bushings because of the length issue.

My old pads had squeal problems, even with the OEM shims AND the permatex brake quiet. I found that chamfering the edges of the pads and using Gunk Squeal medic sprayed onto the rotors solved it. No problems, and this product is safe to use on the rotors.

Which car did you get this from? Which model is it?

The JDM lsd's are weak, and fail a lot. There's bound to be someone with a broken diff that you could get the half shafts from. I would not recommend this lsd anyways. I tried one out and it failed within just a couple of months at only 375hp.

That's right. If your can doesn't have it, be sure to put some stainless steel wool in there with a hose that guides the gases to the bottom of the can to flow back up through the wool. Otherwise the can will be ineffective (i.e. Greddy cans)

I would insulate the rad if I were you, the stock mounts are rubber for this reason. Not sure of the age, but mine was in the car when I bought it, and the leaks appeared after a few 1000 miles. I picked up a heavy duty mountain bike inner tube, and cut it up to use as an insulating material...

Was looking under the car today. Do the 2 front hard lines need to come out to get the bushings in? It looks like there is only 1/2" inch between the lines and the oil pan to move the rack up.

I was wondering if I could break 500 on the dyno at the upcoming Pac NW meet. On a rather hot day on the dyno my car showed very slight knock at 24psi, then we backed the timing down 2 degrees and just run 21-22psi. So it just needs a little more octane to get up to 25.

Just in case people did not know, the drag venue has been changed: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101614

Just for your interest, I recently swapped in a divided turbo, and an SP quick spool valve with 3.5" downpipe, and my car went from somewhat loud to extremely quiet! No drone whatsoever. I was quite surprised.

Approx. how much additional octane I will need to go from 22psi to 26psi? (assuming 22psi is currently safe on 94 pump + meth/water). I know that leaded fuel reduces the life of a Bosch wideband sensor, but only slightly if used once or twice at the track. But is it really bad for the OEM O2...

I know a few people mix pump gas and race gas to add octane. My car is currently safe up to 22psi on 94 octane pump gas + water/meth injection. (There was slight pinging at 24psi on the dyno, and we then backed the base timing down 2 degrees) If I want to boost 25-26psi, should I run a 50/50...

Thanks for the suggestions Jdub, IJ :biglaugh: Jeremy, I've heard pinion bearing noise before, and it is more of a howl. The whine I'm getting sounds more like high pitched gear noise. How did yours sound? Lol :biglaugh:

Is the 87-88 cap quite small? My car came with an older Koyo radiator and the cap/neck on it is much larger than on my new one I just bought. Did they change cap sizes over the years?

My diff has always had a bit of a whine at highway speed, nothing serious. I've been running synthetic oil in it, and was thinking of switching back to regular oil, possibly something slightly thicker to reduce the noise; especially since I am about to install poly subframe bushings that can...

Yes, the pinhole is so tiny, that there was no obvious way to create one smaller.

Forgot to post the link to the dyno vid! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHnOF4n1En0

Was hoping to! But my subframe is now severely cracked in 4 places from the all the torque. Only 3 bolts left holding the diff in! :aigo: