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If you're on a stock turbo, you've got other upgrades to perform first. Generally, people only add a meth kit to go above 15psi on a larger turbo setup.

Glad to see I'm not the only one in the "mismatched white engine bay" club ;) Nice color and wheels! So you how much power were you running before the latest upgrades? Looks like you will be set up for some serious ponies with that list of mods.

Interesting how in the video, the surge slammed the boost from 20psi to 15psi in an instant, and caused dips in power to show on the dyno graph. I believe the turbo in the video did not have an antisurge housing. This is why they make turbos with antisurge/ported shrouds ;)

Either a few of us go down, or everyone on this board chips in a few bucks to get Ian over here to a big Supra meet :D

These vids are always LOL

Good news! I'm believe my water/methanol kit has effectively cleaned my cold start injector! For a very long time, the car has been a little tough to start when cold, but now it starts up perfectly. :biglaugh: I also had a peek at my throttle plate recently, and it was originally a little...

Usually one of 2 things: 1. the ECU is not getting a signal that you are trying to start. Usually caused by a faulty or disconnected clutch switch, or something else in that circuit. 2. Cold start injector may be clogged. I had problem #1 that I daignosed and fixed, and it dramatically...

Seems that mine, even after it's stopped spinning, won't go into R sometimes. I gotta try 1st first and sometimes even roll the car a bit.

It did well for drag racing when I had it, faster hole shots. I wasn't a fan of it on the street though. More wheelspin in 2nd gear and running through the gears too fast, in my opinion.

It gets quite warm when mixed as well. Chemical reaction? All these important things to know. You'd think the suppliers like AEM and Snow would inform their customers about this stuff, maybe put warning pamphlets in with their product?

Wow your car is 500lbs lighter than mine and still a targa? Should be a monster at 20+psi with meth. My stock 7M at 21psi breaks my 295's loose in 2nd if they are not warm (even with the weight of lots of gas, meth tank, subs, and battery in the back). Any more TQ and street traction would be no...

Would a torx bit be stronger than an allen head of the same size? Would I get much more preload by first freezing the fitting and washers with a can of duster sprayed upside down? Unfortunately, there is just no room for any socket at all. Nothing other than the allen head and shortened bolt...

My turbo is a custom billet GT35r that has the water lines excessively close to the T4 turbine housing. The banjo bolt in the pic below I had to have cut shorter, machined in a lathe, and have an allen bolt head welded on. This was the only way to install this bolt and tighten it on the turbo...

How big is the difference on average? 1%? 5%?

In this pic of my billet turbo you can just barely see the port line. It is just above the smaller set of fins, but below the larger ones. My BOV is adjustable and I was able to only put a small amount of spring pressure on it so it opens and vents low boost very easily, but still holds 24psi...

Did you say it dyno'd 385hp at 11psi? Very impressive. I plugged your trap speed and approx weight (3900lb?) into this calculator http://www.rpmoutlet.com/dyno.htm and it estimates your hp to be 362 (perhaps average overall hp, not peak?) I plugged my trap speed of 114 into it and it estimates...

How big are the wheels on a 60-1 by the way? I think it would be safe for you to pull the trigger and try out the SP quick spool valve. I think you'd get 300-500 sooner spool. You've seen how crazy fast the boost and power is rising on my dyno graph when the valve is closed. I'm running a T4 .84...

The HTA3586r with SP quick spool valve on my stock 7M spools 15psi at 3600rpm. I can still tune the SP valve to hold closed longer and it should hit 15psi by 3300-3400. This turbo is rated to up to 700hp, so with a built free flowing engine it should do 600 on a 3.0 easily. So I would say this...

I believe only the JDM cars in Japan got the 4.1 Torsen diffs that break easily. All of the other diffs, 3.7, 3.9, 4.3 were clutch pack (not torsen) diffs, and are the super strong ones. IIRC. You could still use the 4.1 gears out of the JDM diff with a USDM clutch pack, if you wanted that gear...

My car came with a JDM 7MGTE (no EGR) and a USDM ECU. I installed an AEM progressive water/methanol injection kit that starts spraying a small amount at a very low psi, that goes to full spray at 12psi. I am boosting up to 21psi all the time now with no knock detected on the dyno. I didn't test...