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When I tried to fit a set of 89+ rear column covers, the ignition cylinder was a different shape, and in a different spot. I had to reorder 87 ones.

Here is a very interesting concept that a very small number of people are trying these days, most of them having great success: Spraying water/methanol directly into the turbo to cool the air AS it is heated by the compressor wheel, making it dramatically more efficient, lowering outlet temps...

Pre89 are different from 89+ because of the ignition cylinder.

Finish breaking in the engine, with the proper initial oil changes. Then try a compression and/or leakdown test. If it checks out Ok, you're probably good to go.

Couple of videos: Click HQ for higher video resolution * http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKypE1VEwZc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHnOF4n1En0

NIGHT RUNS: Hi quality YouTube link: http://tinyurl.com/lufmjf Normal quality YouTube link: http://tinyurl.com/nq6f3h DYNO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHnOF4n1En0

How much power are you running? I swapped in a JDM 4:10 torsen and it broke after 3 months at only 350-370 hp. The OEM ones for our cars are well known to be be weak.

Generally, it is the heat that cooks them. They say the ideal location is near the cat. My Innovate LC-1 sensor just failed, after installing a different downpipe that has the sensor only 3" from the turbo. I was getting odd number readings on my digital display, but when I hooked up my laptop...