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you should take a pic of the turbine side, thats even more scary! did you grind down and smooth the detroit diesel plaque off? usually they just have the DD emblem smoothed over. looks pretty cool.

code 51 is when no IDL signal is present. the car thinks you still have your foot on the throttle (or if you have in diag mode and touch the throttle it will trigger it). id say its just off adjustment. you really need a voltmeter to set it right.

does it look like this?

is the turbo you are looking at use a v-band to connect the chra?

here is mine- http://videos.streetfire.net/video/161db5f8-8cac-4e13-9402-98ae016131da.htm

ive found that torque converter stall will greatly vary due to torque, traction, and brakes. what one guy can stall at 2500 another may be able to stall at 3000. i think on the stock converter i could usually get about 2800 rpm out of it at the track if i got everything perfect. and ive...

ive used dolphin connectors before, they are pretty nice. still, i solder everything. why? well i have good equipment and i solder all day everyday so id like to think im decent at it. avionics is a whole different ball game. if you have issues you cant just pull over. even still, ive...

i dont buy that. the wastegate is referenced pre intercooler.

and to add to that: this is why ive always thought it to be a better idea to run a pos and neg cable when doing a battery relocation. i know people can "get away" with just hooking the neg cable to ground in the hatch but i prefer 2 cables.

im thinkin drag lites- the weld rim used for drag racing. what size do you have? what tire do you plan on using?

a higher stall converter will really help at the track for sure. 3000 is still pretty mild so shouldnt have that "slipping clutch" feel street driving. just be sure you guys add a large tranny cooler if you havent already when running a looser converter.

turbine is the same as what? it should be a S-trim turbine wheel no? the 1.01 is what i sold x-man for his gt4202 and it works great. they are kinda spendy tho and sometimes have a lead time since they are custom made.

yeah knock will not set a code. failure of the circuit will. are you sure both of the knock sensors you swapped are good? how do you have the wiring grounded? have you tried to jumper the knock sensor signals together at the ecu to see if the code goes away?

sparco makes a set. but last i heard they have been on backorder for the past 2 years. no kiddin. i have heard of people using mkii sliders, but not sure what is involved for that.

ant- yeah i was looking for something that i could lower the front just a little and keep the rear around stock height. also, didnt want road race spring rates on them or to lower the whole car. wanted to keep around stock rates or maybe a tad softer for the rear. havent been able to find...

bzzzt. 50% you fail! lol. i missed some questions here, sorry. yes the problem ended up being the IDL switch didnt disengage fast enough. there is a test where you short IDL to E2 (gnd) and bring the revs up past 1600 to test for fuel cut off. so once i got past that point it was cutting...

yep and thats great. everyone wants something different in what they want the car to do. myself, i really dont care what kind of power im making down low on the street. heck it takes 2k rpm just to get my car to move w/ the high stall converter. 4k+ is where its at for me. but see with my...

that sounds reasonable. supposedly the 89+ were ~16% stiffer in the rear.

i want soft for drag racing. have been looking around for something a little stiffer in front and little softer in the rear. stock rate is 461 and 215 (89+) for anyone unsure. sounds like the 9 and 3 is pretty close for my needs. i know there are a few companies like ST that have fairly...

duane- is that actual carpet or that spray on fuzzy carpet like stuff? where did it come from? thanks