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not to mention thats HELL on your tires...

i never thought of that being a reason to go with a 7m over a 6m crank, but i guess you could reason that it would load the turbo better... haha i just wanted it because of the better rotating harmonics and it would beat less on my bearings! and easier to balance

i dont think the OEM injectors could even take 10psi from a SP61GT! haha but yes i do see the point of doing a full fuel system upgrade. maybe not going all out with an external fuel pump, but at least a rework of the main components, pump, feed, AFPR, injectors, and return line.

i talked with Jeff one night about the turbos hes making, and my god... if you have ANY questions he'll have the answer. i think we had at least an hour conversation... and it was 11:30 at night!!! haha and for daily driving, 10psi should be doable, it wont create a lot of power, but if your...

you should think about investing in a good compressor and an impact wrecnh...

you could check your tire pressure, if you inflate it to the max, then that wouldnt suprise me why you spin em so much.

SR20's are over rated, there like the new age B-series swap... I would rather build a built KA then go thru the hassle of the SR. and if your going to take a hit in displacement, would much rather go 1jz for that matter.

me and you think alike, im building a "built" motor with eagle rods and probe pistons, but im still going to be on the stock turbo, stock IC, stock everything! just so i can get use to the car, and then im going to mod it slowly so that way im not just jumping into a 400hp RWD monster.

i think the real question is why were you buying cigs at wal-mart? dont you ever go to a gas station? lol and quin, yours are always packed because you live in IN. haha

arent turbo egt's suppose to be up around 1400 at wot/max power?

i see your point, it just didnt sound like he had an endless budget to throw at it. that and there are so many different RB engines... 2.0, 2.5, 2.6. and then in one of my latest magazines they STROKE the RB out to 3.0L just like the 2jz... haha. that made me laugh. i think both engines are...

suprasport has the boss seriers of turbos hks has the sport turbo upgrade (old school) sp racing makes there sp61 and 67 i was lookin into bolt on turbo upgrades just because there so much easier then trying to get the whole t3/t4 system to all work out

shouldnt he FIRST figure out how much power he wants to create in the end? because the CT doesnt do very well at 20psi, and thats what he said he wants to push for those "happy days" i take it. the SP61 have laid down some awesome numbers, and its on a stock exhaust manifold! it did 490HP on...

dollar for dollar the 2jz is just easier. and we all know it bolts up. unless i got a full engine, ecu, and everything PLUS the correct rwd transmission for say... 2k, then i would think about it. even still then i would rather sell it and just go jz.

what do you mean you can never get a good idle reading? maybe you have other problems with your oiling system... what does the stock gauge read? and if your engine never reachers full operating temps just sitting there, then you have something else wrong, sounds like you got some other issues...

make sure you have a wastegate on that turbo?

copper breaks a lot easier than the plastic lines to... and if a mechanical line is better, why does the supra come OEM with an electric oil press. gauge? that right there is enough to tell me. now if you want an engine mounted oilpressure gauge, then i would say sure, go mechanical.

powder coat! either a dark grey like you've been saying or some other darker color...

i would go electric for any gauges i could. espeically oil and fuel gauges... do you REALLY want a line full of hot oil leading into your interior?

red cable = + side of battery black cable = - side of battery then you normally connect another "clamp" style thing onto the number one sprak plug wire to puck up the signal, then you point at the crank/timing cover plate where those little numbers are.