I dont think its your tps. You can check it with out taking it apart or loosining the set screws.
In your case the tps would have to be totaly bad.
Look at the mkiv tps adjustment and guide to qualify it.
There is 4 wires that come out of your tps.
1) Vcc power +5vdc comes out of ecu...
Closer to the TB allows more time for the air to respond to the opening of it because its the futhest from the turbo to help avoid surge, Also if it is higher and it malfunctions (stuck open) if its mounted lower it can possibly suck water at vacume points (hydro lock bad) also its exposed to...
Swap your ecu into another car in your area to qualify it. if its bad send to DM to repair or even inspect the caps to see if they show visual signs of being blown
If its not your sensors ecu the only thing left is your wiring.
you can even try your map sensor on another car as well...
Nope its a weak combo I would just get a 2JZ-GE or even GTE bottom end to match the head.
The only benifit to going 1.5JZ is keeping everything the same if you were to blow the bottom end out because you could get a 2JZ bottom end for ~200 and get an extra .5ltrs out of the deal.
My setup...
The only way the filter could be crapped out is if you drove the car for a while with out a intake filter or with boost leak. Inspect it to qualify its a simple task.
Most likely your sensor took a crap what do you expect for a berometric pressure sensor mounted in the engine bay for 20+...
Foreign object damage
Keeps the debris from lodging into the sensor port at 12psi.
Also helps to buffer any spikes in pressure.
The 2JZ one is the same for the most part there is people that argue a 2JZ one picks up more pressure and an upgrade howerver when people conducted pressure test...
Sorry could not get a clear shot of te termination point on the second bolt because the rear trim is in the car.
You want to use a piloted bonding brush to clean the surface for metal to metal contact so you dont blow up your starters like mentioned before.
You also want to use an iodine...
+1 for that you want to fallow the driverside wire loom.
Here is a picture of my relocation kit.
It uses the summit kit P# http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890028
For some reason the kit is obsolete it used to cost ~45$
Actually where I tied it down at for the rear is the best option I meggered Ohmed out the connections needs the least prep work other then running a seperat ground cable 0 gauge to all the rest of the electronics using the factory ground the way toyota designed the car is most efficient the...
The negative tie down to the battery in your situation is the worst & most horrible.
Instead lug a 0-1 gauge wire run the negative post into the forward most dustcover for the rear bumper support then bolt it down to the frame at the rear bumper support bolt inside the car.
At this ground...
If you want super stiff coil overs go for the RA's or Megans.
Since we drive tanks I like it on the stiffer side.
Just a warning though if you set the setting to max stifness if your girl friend haves a big chest she will hate them because they will bounce even with a steel bra.:boobs:
I used the 16" 3K CFM from perma cool with no issues you strap the 10amp 170° switch to the water neck & TRD 165° thermastat + Koyo 55mm core radiator.
I kept the JZA70 shroud didnt need a relay because the amp ratting of the fan and switch Combo
The only fir issue with the...
No do not cut the ignitor connector infact dont cut the junction box#2 connector by the ignitor just unclip the connector off of the JDM junction box & plug it in then you only have to splice 1-2 wires there at the max!
You will have to add the two thick wires that come off the alternator to...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.