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sure do! i sell them for $570 might want to act fast if interested. i just go word all inj pricing goes up 1 may.

like i said, no listing for the rs diaphram. only the s and r. even then, they are ~$75 for just that piece. might call greddy direct

it could be a coupler that is split. i would also check the grommets in the head where the injectors are fitted. if one of those are loose/deformed you can leak boost. you never said at what boost level you hit fco either.

hmmm, what could that be.....

why did you take it apart? is it a real greddy or a knock off that you have? im a dealer and i dont see any breakdowns for the bov other than the outlet attachments.

the injectors 580-880cc are $450 w/ clips. people have been buying those 550cc injectors for cheaper on ebay (albeit they are different than the ones i sell), which is why i dont sell the smaller ones much anymore. most of what i sell are 680cc+ because $450 for those sizes are a pretty good...

thats odd, those look nothing like the ones i sell from precision. regardless, so long as they flow like they should all is well.

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=1180+West+National+Road,+Vandalia,+OH+45377&sll=39.776224,-84.069788&sspn=0.011659,0.012896&layer=&ie=UTF8&z=16&om=1&iwloc=addr hope you can make it

yes you can bypass the coolant lines for the tbody and isc. they were designed to run thru there to keep them warm and prevent freezing in real cold climates.

also on the supra it will not read an airflow number, thats for use on cars that hook up the yellow and white wires. our cars will read Hz in the frequency monitor

its not that hard. autometer makes the adapter you need to thread in the aftermarket sender into the stock location. p/n autometer 2269 this will work for all 1/8 npt sending units, not just autometer

yeah its open all day. but thought about going on thurs so i can relax and sleep in some on friday. thought it might be easier on my back than driving up, standing all day, then only getting a few hours sleep.

last spring i tried to get some and they were on backorder til further notice. they may have discontined them. im glad i didnt get them tho, they sit way too high for me (rode in another supra w/ the brackets). your best bet is have someone fab up something for you to adapt the stock...

since the dyno starts at 11am friday, chris and i have talked about actually leaving early pm on thurs.

ok, just wanted to be sure you were using a real wideband. do you have a laptop? if so record a run and post it back here. other than that, you can try to do a reset on the pro itself. be sure you write down your setting first. edit- here is a quick vid of my car at idle and rev up...

10-4 that's a lot of fuel pressure. id start with 32psi with the vac line off. i would also take a bit out of your mainscale. instead of -25% id go back to say around -10% or even back to 0% to see where you are. changing base fuel pressure that much you are gonna put a lot less fuel in...

what is your base fuel pressure? what version firmware do you have on the pro?

i guess i did. you are always one step ahead of me lol

for the small batteries i would recommend a battery tender. they will help maintain the charge on the battery and fairly inexpensive. dr j- have you considered putting a heat shield around that battery? heat would be a little bit of a concern w/ me in that location.

does your fuel pressure go up 1psi per 1psi of boost? id drill out the cover over the stock screw and crank it all the way in to close off some of the unmetered air. better yet, throw the stock afm on there and see if the problem goes away.