Search results

It's 50-50 man.. there are many factors. Mileage and previous owners being a couple.

Thanks for posting, MmmBoost, that gives me hope!

I want to pump up my cars performance with a "2JZ-GTTE" He makes it sound likes its an easy thing, why even say that? The cars hideous, and unfixable IMHO.

also, isn't it a good idea to use larger lines as well to keep the vac from sucking oil out of the valve covers? Because I believe thats why it happened before with the oil puking.

Its the PCV, I don't have the proper Vac as both MDC and IJ have stated to me before. I have problems with blowby so I would like to stay away from rerouting it back into the intake (vomiting oil from BOV at 20+ PSI). I'm thinking about an eletric, or even belt driven (if I could do it)...

individual 1/2" hoses (one per valve cover).. road draft. I have some serious blowby problems, so I need to figure something out.

okay, so I just finished pulling the turbo, there was no oil in the downpipe.. exhaust side.. or the turbo manifold.. WTF? Also, I didn't see evidence that oil had ever burned off from these places (someone told me white reidue in the past, not sure how accurate that is). I was thinking PCV...

My oil system is completely stock in every way shape and form. And I didn't use RTV sealant.. will that contaminate the oil or goop up things.. or both?

I've had problems with killing turbos, I know people have had problems with SP61GT's, some accounit to their oil feed line being too narrow and too long. It took me about 6 months to kill my turbo. I decided to run a Garrett T04E. It came with a beautiful -4AN feed line which fit perfectly...

Umm.. did the link from the first page change for anyone else? It was showing a 1jz manifold earlier.. now its just an SS Autochrome.

:word8kn: try SF

I can't wait to stumble across the forum where this XB driver claims his victory against you ;)

LMFAO

IBTL

Me neither, but I do like my SBC-ID, so I'd go for the blitz tried and true

Do you mean, if no oil is present on the dipstick, its an indicator of contamination? Just trying to clarify

No. I use it and it works great.

Nah, it welds up.. but not that perfectly.

You're correct.. the oil cooler is on a valve that opens at a particular oil pressure. If the spring is worn, then the valve could pre-maturely open and cause a 10% oil PSI loss (says IJ :)) This is because that pressure goes through the oil and goes back into the oil pan; basically wasted...

I have the same problem, only on MAF-T.