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cool.you must have the main shaft ready to press the bearing's and gear's off.the counter shaft only has one bearing to press off.the input shaft only has one.it's just the main shaft thats all the work.

i have access to a 30 ton press. did you pull the bearing off the output shaft yet?i used a puller for that. to bad your so far away,i'd let you use the press.

the w58 is probably similar.i think the shaft's aren't as beefy

a couple of guy's where having new thrust washer's made,but didn't want to sell any till they where tested.one thing i noticed taking mine apart,was alot of sludge in the slot's of the thrust washer.i'm sure that would help it starve for oil,but i'm sure people have probably broke them in new...

i did mine about a month ago.the shifter fork's coming out with the alignment pin's was a little tricky for me.hope you don't mind me putting up a couple of pic's in your thread.pm me if you want me to take them down:icon_bigg this is a break down of the main shaft and counter shaft you can...

i have an arc titanium front bar.nothing in the back yet

use the tsrm for the 2jzgte shim clearance's.i don't remember i did mine so long ago

i was running that set-up on my car.single 1jz with 550's.it looked like the set-up jav posted with the link.i didn't know much about it at all,but my car wouldn't run with out it on the stock ecu.

i was going to paint it over winter,but i'm breaking the bank on other part's:cry: .bomex replica side's,rear's,whale tail and gracier nose from shine auto

one of the journal's on each cam need's to be machined down

mostly red,hopefully the last picture before it's all red

this might be ok for a daily driver that won't be driven hard.every auto manifacture in the world making there stock wheel's hub centric,common sense.every car or truck i've ever heard that lost a wheel from breaking stud's didn't have the spacer's,they help disperse(sp?) the load evenly.the...

i'll be checking this thread for update's.i'm searching for a 2j bottom for my car,my 1j has some bad ring's

if you don't use the hubcentric ring's on your wheel's,it will put all the weight on your lug's.your lug's are not made to carry the weight of the car.you could snap your lug's and lose a wheel.

i would go with the 264's just to wake it up a little and carry the power to the rev limit.the 1jz with cam's is a stone out of boost,but when it hit's HOLD ON.

i got different length's from a local autopart's store

4.30 open if non-sport package. 4.30 lsd if it is a sport package n/a do you have a taller tire or a different tran's?

hope it run's good for ya.post more pic's too.

stock rail thread pitch is 12mm x 1.25.remove the stock fpr and run that to one of the side port's of the aeromotive afpr.then the return to the tank need's to go to the bottom of the regulator

650's = standalone you can buy the 440's in the for sale section for $150 with the 2j rail(even though the rail is useless)i've seen them for as low as $50 for all 6 and don't think your going to find a safc that cheap.your car will run real rich down low with 650's and safc won't help you...