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something break?

if working with cellphones is any indication, you should box in the engine compartment and fill with uncooked rice for a day or two.

it goes away if you push in the clutch, but are still rolling along? then you can likely eliminate the rear end, rear wheel bearings, and possibly the driveshaft joints/bearing. look at the clutch and trans perhaps?

have fun with higher EGTs :) +1 for the oem gasket if you must delete the EGR.

thanks for the write-up, everything looks good. but, fuck DDM tuning.

d'awwww :p

wont work, stock wheels need a flat faced lugnut w/washer. muteki's are cone-seat.

have you tried www.car-part.com ? it's my go to for searching junkyards.

any good quick release should have contacts that complete the circuit whenever the wheel is inserted. it should work fine provided you can find the one wire for the horn trigger (as i recall, on toyotas of this vintage but not specifically on my supra...yet) the horn has a single wire trigger...

thanks for this thread to those that contributed info, helped me confirm that i have a W58.... that i need to replace... because i'm pretty sure my ham-fisted shifting bent my no.3 shift fork (can't get it into 5th at ALL :3d_frown:)

hmm? meaning? to clarify, the jacked up gap is probably caused by me not seating the plug right when installing it, not a manufacturer defect (plus i double check gaps when i install plugs)

it PASSED! :D stupidest crap ever....when i went to pull the plugs out for the compression test (2nd time seeing the plugs since i put them in 2 months ago) and i see this: :yikes: swapped in another plug and lo-and-behold the car is running PERFECTLY.:evil2: I'm pretty sure that the...

The Blaster SS was going to be a cheap upgrade for me anyways, $45-50 and i usually see a 0.5ish mpg gain which makes it (eventually) worth it on most cars. i've had a rough time finding any of my shops that actually have an ignition scope, they all have the NEWEST diagnostic equipment for...

just supposed to post on the wall right? kinda think we lost :(

given the above (and a bit more research) i'm going to go ahead and see if i can source a replacement coil for cheap. (either Beck/Arnley stock replacement or MSD Blaster SS as they're the same cost) all help still appreciated.

still need to borrow a compression tester, but in th emeanwhile i double checked the distributor cap+rotor (to make sure the rotor was oriented properly, it was). While in there i double checked the magnetic pickup air gaps ( from...

but you dont ususally need to weld a warped (ie-bent) rim unless it's cracked.....?

the problem fixed in large part affects the likelihood of the repair holding up... if it was just rash, or even a minor bend (since it's a cast wheel) getting it fixed isnt really going to compromise the structure. (same can be said to some (albeit lesser) degree for SMALL cracks that have been...

a friend actually suggested that as well, will try to get compression or leakdown numbers soon. TPS is new and was adjusted with a digital multimeter, seemed to work well enough to get rid of the code 51?

video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQqfUHp5TeI warm start up (normal ops temperature before) couple free revs up to ~6/6500rpm idle (sputter/misfire very apparent) ~2000rpm hold (still pretty apparent, car was smogged at ~1.8-2k rpm and bogs/sputters) idle ~4000rpm hold (less...