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-Found a cheap+guaranteed AFM so that's on its way (got it cheap enough to make it an easy sell if mine ends up fine) -tap will be here this weekend(ish) for me to clear my code 43 -a friend suggested it's an evil EGR malfunction perhaps? (wtf)

sweet thanks for the update!! i figure a lot of the odds and ends would be solved by pulling parts from a donor car? btw if you want headers IMF(?) makes them out of china for the SC400 and PPE in arizona has some nice ones for the GS/SC as well :)

because the witchcraft the previous owner did with his homebrew alarm system (that i ended up ripping out) prevented it from working, so i did the starter relay mod with a hidden switch. with the STA wire connected the car wont crank but the code goes away. also, forgot to add that when i got...

do you have a better suggestion?

i've learned my lesson in the past from using cheap no brand electronics components for important circuits, have some 3M 953 10-12gauge self-stripping taps on order, so i can unplug the sta wire (from the engine harness) from my own starter wiring to make future removal less of a pain. Didn't...

i prefer www.R1concepts.com for my rotors (though i have yet to replace the ones on my supra as of yet). they use Centric blanks, what kind of blanks brakeperformance use?

might be down for a skin but are we talking CF that's actually lighter than the oem targa or lexan/plexi that's clear?

the tap i want is already on order, just waiting for it to get here :D

timing was set using TSRM procedure, i'll try to get some time away during this week to double check TDC and rotor status. though, if there was a problem with rotor position, would the car run as well as it does over 2.5k rpm? thanks for the help so far guys :)

ok no clue what happened but i went and tested my AFM this morning and again just now and got readings that were perfectly within spec?!?! wtf.....same problem persists.

just had a thought, i've got an ever-present code 43 (sta signal) from the previous owner's semi-jury rigged ignition setup, so i currently have my own starter relay wiring in place without the original (blue striped) wire going to the brown terminal on the starter. I do have plans to splice...

new dist. cap and rotor. i'll pull them off to check if the o-ring's leaking.

best i can do for you in that respect is a failed CA smog test (REALLY REALLY high HC/CO) from a month and a half back when it was running on 5cyl, it got new wires afterward since they were way out of spec. what's the "correct" test for the vane-type AFM? Is it the "off vehicle" test as...

update: fresh oil+coolant today, also replaced the coolant temp sensor and reset the timing (it was a couple degrees too high, oops). problem persists :( would a video help guys?

mind going over a rough cost outlay for the whole swap as well as naming offhand those stupid small bits that you end up needing in the middle of assembly please?

I went and tested the AFM on the car and E2/VC and E2/VS were both way way out of spec, but the car didnt have a CEL for the AFM? tested as per: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/FI/FI_094.gif so should I still go pick up an AFM that tests right and hope it works (i'm not...

Spent a fairly large amount of time searching and troubleshooting, this is where i'm at:nono: bought the car with BHG, head was shaved, stone headgasket w/ARP studs, new gaskets most everywhere, new plugs (NGK v-power copper), new wires (NGK), thermostat, and more stuff. as it is, the car...

in for a lexan targa :D

honestly, with the damage under the cover it'll prolly end up in the 13-1500 range... none of that blending crap, on older paint it usually looks way better to respray the panel.

mine needed a small hit of silicone lube :p