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yeah if the latch works its the spring. the latch cable in my '89 is stretched to hell so i have to open the access panel in the trunk and manually trigger the latch :p

a couple friends have had good luck with the BC-racing but i know more running/drifting/daily-ing on Megans than i DO BC. don't know anyone happy with their KSports. to be honest, why you can get Stance for 1200ish, or bilstein/hyperco at like 2k+(price jump, i know), why get the one...

looks good, waiting for moar updates :)

dont really have too much time to work on it tonight but i'll get you guys a video asap. I did forget to mention that the ECT sensor and re-timing the motor brought my idle down to the proper 650-700 range when warm, though it does have that odd sputter. i just put ~27in. Hg on the EGR vac line...

words escape me at this point, the lean misfire is in all honesty a best guess at this point(which i realize is mostly negated by the high HC, got the idea from the below quoted source), and there isn't much testing i can do to the EGR...

im going to go back to that whole possibility of the EGR being stuck open for these reasons: -simple to fix (swap in an EGR, though a pain in the ass, is easy enough) -high HC due to a lean misfire possibly due to EGR valve being stuck OPEN, causing decreased combustion efficiency...

as requested: that's about 2ish hours old.

update x2: Failed smog again today :( it came much closer (this time the only reason it failed was elevated HC at both mph tests, raising with each) but didnt quite make it. i'm stumped, CO and Nox were both perfect, but the HC, even though it came down a LOT since the last test 2 months ago...

ahh then yeah, i'd be concerned with how in depth the rebuild was post-BHG as well as how bad the BHG got/how far the car was driven in that state.

pretty much, i've gone all the way up to the fuel pressure which i have not yet done.

so wait, does this car have like full suspension/wheels or something, or are you about to pay $2900 for a supra with both a BHG AND a blown turbo? or did i misread? (ie-define "many aftermarket parts" please)

OK update time: -new AFM came in, bench tested PERFECT, put it in and the car responds ever so slightly better, but the old one bench tested fine too so idk? (placebo effect?) -spliced in the STA wire, no more code 34 -re-timed the car, 10* BTDC dead on (was 8-9 before probably due to my timing...

fixed :) but yes, as mentioned, no turbo=naturally aspirated, regardless of block/head config.

sorry, in specific i meant did you use Supra TT rotors meant for another car.

why dont you go create a FS thread then :rolleyes:

i may be in the minority but i'm interested iin a set of adapters if you do make them :) mind you, i'd run 2LS400 calipers (~8.2mm difference in diameter) which are 2pc aluminum and a TON lighter than the TT calipers. they use the same bolt-pattern as the TT. what rotor did you end up using...

Lexus 01-06 IS300 wheels, 17x7 06-current ISx50, 18x8/18x8.5 08-current IS-F, 19x8/19x9 FORGED 07-current GS350/430/460, 18x8 01-06 LS430, 18x7.5 02-09 SC430, 18x7.5 (2diff styles) 04-current RX3x0, 18x7 (2diff styles) Toyota 09-current Venza, 19x7.5 09-current Venza, 20x7.5 (2diff styles)...

sorry i meant silicone-based heat-sensitive glue vs. thermoplastic heat seal (ie-giant plastic crimper) but yeah,you got the point. pilot ehh...hmm.. would love a glass one for durability but if plastic = easy open+easy seal....

slight hijack but does anyone know which ebay housings are glued not heat-sealed? for disassembly like normal headlights and not needing cutting.

is it making the sound every time you hit full lock? could be the little nylon limit covers on the steering stops, they fall off with age (my car was missing both sides) and when they do you get metal on metal clunk/grind when you turn to full lock.