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i posted a reply in the dyno sticky, but i'll respond here too. can you monitor fuel pressure? is it rising 1:1? where did you buy your walbro? yes, you need to drill the plug cap over the screw on the lex afm and take it in when running 440's. what are your settings on the afc?

can you monitor fuel pressure? sure it is rising 1:1? where did you buy the walbro?

i thought to participate you had to send an application in and be accepted. thats what supraman502 was talking about, last time if you didnt have an sti or an evo you didnt get accepted. also, i didnt think there was a "price". you just gave a donation of your choice. have they changed it...

ok, just making sure. does it read rpm correctly? does it show a map signal? what is your a/f? what is your vac at idle?

what do you mean you havent messed with it? havent you gone thru and done the configuration/setup after the install?

you could have atleast blown it AFTER the dyno meathead. now i have to wait. again.

jeff- what i would do is take a couple possible dates, then call the dyno to see if they are available both those days. usually they dont plan anything that far in advance, but i've had it happen before. atleast that way we know if a date we pick is 100% available.

justin, can you please attach or email your xdf file to me? other than that, be sure your map sensor has a clean signal. best would be if it had its own vac source.

it might take a little bit for the stock ecu to relearn, so it may try to idle low or search around a little. as far as the rev, there is a slight hesitation at initial tip in you will have to try and tune out. it is the worst on version 4.4

poor tuning yes, but i've seen a lot of blown motors from wrong fuel too. you can't expect to run high boost on a big turbo with pump gas. i guess you can kinda see that as tuning, but i consider tuning a/f and timing, not octane. i'll throw this out there too, altho it has been mentioned...

that small of a road with people right on the edge all the way down, oh hell no.

may 32nd will work best for me. i am fairly open. i know some work every other weekend, so might get some input from them to make some suggestions. then perhaps make a poll to see what seems to be the best fit.

some of you may or may not know, but they actually make a "break in oil filter". it is more expensive than standard, but it filters much smaller particles. you arent supposed to drive with it, it is just used for first start up.

it increases boost above your normal setting for a brief period of time. it is sometimes called "overtake". say you normally run 15psi. you can set the scramble feature for 20psi. when you hit the scramble button (usually steering wheel mount) it will run 20psi for a set period of time or...

the maft gen2 is a second generation maft, which uses a gm maf sensor. the gen2 you cannot run speed density. the maftpro is the only unit that you can run speed density (map sensor) i've found wot tuning is very easy on the maftpro. the only things that take some effort are the boost...

you should always wash with soap! i would pull the access panel in the rear hatch above the sending unit. see if it is on top of the tank too, and if any has puddled up.

yep, just did another motor like this. i also like to dump the oil after first warm up to get all the assy lube and anything else in there out.

it has an adapter to use the hks, greddy, or tial flange. no, on a map sensor it does not have to be recirculated. it does on a maf if the valve is AFTER the sensor.

yep, ive seen it right down the street from my house once. it's loud as hell! apparently he is sometimes at hobby lobby in clarksville.

if you configure it to the quick setup guide, it should be very close to stock. that being said, it is pretty easy to tune, and doubtful any shops around there would have a clue about it. you would probably be just as well off tuning yourself with advice from the people here.