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i'm a big fan of the B&M coolers. they are super tough, esp compared to the tube/fin.

steve- due to the age and your car sitting outside, you may have some corrosion going on. i'll help you look at it at the indy meet if you are going. if not, whenever you have time.

i dont know any of the alum ones having a built in trans cooler. you are much better off running an external aftermarket trans cooler anyway. you can get a pretty decent one for less than $50.

thats good news. usually if you cooked a ring you'd have a lot of blowby and it would collect in the catch can. other than the smoke, car run ok?

install it all. then jumper +B and Fp in the diag box. turn key to on, do not start. check for any leaks and make sure fuel pressure holds solid. i have always been a supporter of having a fuel pressure gauge inside the car. you can make sure that fuel pressure rises with boost pressure...

have you pulled out the catch can to see if it is full of oil? sorry to hear about your uncle matt.

good job as always sean. the car looks really good. i do like the new wheels better than the ones he had on the car when i was out there.

zero problems and have taken several 400+ mile trips with it. not sure why you want a priming pump. my pump kicks on with the key and i get almost instant fuel pressure.

that is for extended life, it wont effect the a/f. you need to hook it up to the laptop. mine went a little crazy one time and it was because it somehow went to a custom fuel setting.

keep at it, and practice on your launch. remember 1/10th in 60' generally equals 2/10th quicker in et. you are pathetic for making fun of a guy at his first time to the track.

the prosport premium gauges are only ~1" deep. they are more expensive than the autometer z series tho.

here you go i wouldnt run them without a roll bar tho. esp on the street.

they must be the delphi injectors. they are ~1/16" difference in length. usually you just shim it up a little like this:

i think this got lost in the mayhem. any ideas?

altho my supra isnt ready, i will still be there. i also want to thank jeff for all the hard work he has done. $30 to dyno is madness!

glad it went well. nice alpine too.

ive seen people make 400ish rw on the turbo you are running. but you arent going to see 450-500rw. stock pistons are fine. stock rods are fine. a good condition stock motor with careful tuning will be fine for what you want to do. forged this and that will not compensate for a car built...

i used a 1/2W resistor. direction doesnt matter, its NP. the tps itself wouldnt cause that issue. but if it is far enough off that the mpro isnt going into the high throttle map, its possible maybe. but only b/c of tuning. i hope that makes sense. it would be real helpful if i could...

it is inside the afm. if you have that code since the mpro install, that is typical. you need to put a 1.2k resistor between THA and E2. here is the pinout on my website if you dont have it. THA should be a light green colored wire and E2 is brown...

so, whats the question? if you are asking if your current setup will get you there, no. if you want to know what will, you need a 61mm+ turbo with a fuel system. you can buy a bolt on turbo, but quite a bit of money. you can get a new manifold, wastegate, new downpipe, ic pipes, etc...