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try setting your low/hi throttle crossover to 74 and 75. ive never had to take more than 20% out at top end on the afc. have to be careful taking too much out because it will effect the timing. either way, try base fuel pressure first. some of the aeromotive fpr you cant take below 35...

those are mfg part numbers. the parts store may or may not use that number, but any of them can cross reference using it.

jason- do you still have the j-tube? you can back down base fuel pressure. try 35 no vac. what are your neo settings?

you may try to do a free air calibration and see if it changes. was the dynojet sensor in the tailpipe?

kyle- what management are you running? btw, i looked and don't have one.

you can remove the jiggle valve with a pair of side cutters. if you dont fill your cutters with rtv, watch out because they go flying. i usually buy my stuff from napa. their website kinda sucks tho. advance auto carries it too if you have that in your area. 195* 45869 180* 45868...

yeah i was just looking at that too. its a little lean for my taste. esp since they tend to run a tad leaner on the street vs dyno. your curve looks pretty decent tho, so i'd raise base fuel pressure or back off the main scale adjustment in the mpro. regardless, real nice numbers for a ct...

i love the duplicolor wheel coat. did my rims with it too. i do have to say it holds up real well, but the clear tends to yellow. this time i did it without the clear. i kinda like the satin look anyway.

yep, mine are cut off and even go a step further and drill it out a bit.

these are real nice. small and individually fused. http://www.iboats.com/Blue_Sea_Screw_Terminal_Blade_Fuse_Blocks/dm/cart_id.726445561--session_id.972018638--view_id.38108

dont get confused with the egr. this is for gas vapor, not exhaust. as far as making it a constant loop, i can't say. i don't understand the system enough to comment on that. why they made it temperature based i'm unsure. someone else can better explain that.

those are fail-safe t'stats. i'm pretty sure all the stants aren't like that. i looked on their website but didn't find much. i've always thought the standard stant were a little cheap. i've used the superstant before and i't looked like it was better made. whether that made a difference...

bvsv is a temp controlled valve. the vsv (like for the fuel pressure regulator) is controlled by voltage. the bvsv is instead triggered by a certain temp. if you want the char canister system to work properly, you need to replace it. if you dont, then plug the vac side and use a plug for...

im not a big fan of using the cig lighter wiring, its tiny wiring. not that a guage is a huge electrical demand. be sure you fuse everything properly too.

k-sport you can order with custom rates. they have a mk4 drag setup and a lot of people like them. honestly tho, a proper working stock suspension works well for drag. for lowering you can get some bilstein shocks. just another option.

they made another system with a single muffler

dammit! forgot about that one. ok i have 7. poodles- yes stock ecu. but not for long. also to note i dont DD the car. as a matter of fact, i dont drive it at all. the past year its been a garage trophy lol

3m sells it. they call it "paint protection film". it is quite a bit thicker and nicer made than the stuff from ebay, albeit at a price. i've used the cheaper stuff for short time use at the track. it got to be a pain to clean all the rubber off the rear bumper, so cut some of this stuff to...

yes, and there isn't a lot "toyota" left. it's also hard to tell in the pic where the vac lines are. its fairly hidden, you gotta look. i was just making a point is all.

thank you. people seem to jump down each other's throats when it comes to removing stuff. i say this. i have 6 total lines on my car, counting tees. yep, there was stuff there for a reason, and i took stuff off for a reason. on the other side, just pulling random hoses because you saw...