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i didnt know whiteline made springs for our car. i looked it up and couldnt find it on their website. i found the p/n (from 2004) and searched the distributors and was not found. do they no longer make them or is there a new p/n for them?

that is the strangest idle i have ever heard lol can you upload your bin file and maybe a 20-30 sec datalog? you should be able to attach it on here.

no comp on any cyl!? as in zero? how did you do the compression test?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21379

22 = water temp sensor. either not plugged in correctly or the sensor is bad. wouldnt cause the car not to start. 24 = intake air temp sensor. you running the stock afm?

i think the bad idle and poor performance is due to oil coating inside the afm. that would be my guess. pull the dipstick out, take the oil filler cap off, and pull the pcv line going to the accordian hose. if smoke pours out of these areas you have some excessive blowby. might consider a...

yeah, back it down just a fuzz. here is the only pic of mine installed that i could find offhand.

dont drill there. that would be the same as drilling/tapping into the downpipe. drilling and welding/threading a bung onto the downpipe (next to 02 sensor) would be much easier and accomplish the same thing instead of drilling into thick cast iron. agreed!

zurud! how are you testing it and at what pressure? no, it is not normal to leak. not familiar w/ the boss turbo design, but most have a machined flange and a seal. this is the best pic i could find...

from milwaukee area, now live in ky. but been to a few chi meets.

again, my vote is leave it as is. yes, it isnt as loud as other cars because of stock turbo, stock boost, its location, and on a rubber hose. also, yep that appears to be from the chi meet. i thought i had seen your car before.

how much fuel were you pulling w/ the safr? typically after a point your timing will be higher than wanted and cause higher egts due to airflow scaling. i use the wb for a/f and egt for timing. i know, here come the pilots... lol

i never had good luck running vista on mpro. you have to remember, tuner pro (the actual software used on mpro) was designed for win98 and a 100 mhz processor lol. also, the sewell usb adapter works best from what i've seen. the p/n is ap1102

yeah, leave it as is. if you still get a bit of cha cha cha at low throttle/boost but blows off at full boost, you have it right.

wow clean looking car! yep, having it mounted on a hose like that does make it a little more pita. i never had my rs on a hose, but on a prev bov it seemed to work a little better when it was welded directly on the ic pipe. either way, sounds like you have it right. edit: i see you are...

holy crap that could be anything. check codes of course. first thing i would look at (aside from goofy things like plug wires in wrong order, something not plugged in, etc) is make sure the cps is aligned properly. it's real easy to align it wrong.

no, then it may leak under boost. you want to turn it up to hard. keep backing it down until the compressor surge goes away (full boost i'm talking). done. also, try to keep the vac line as short as possible and at a good source. it is not a crazy loud bov anyway. but where you have it...

i buy 110 from jacobi's for $5.50/g this was last year, not sure if the price has gone down or stayed the same. also, the unleaded stuff is always more expensive than the leaded.

unless you get a bangin deal from the airport you are better off buying race gas. octane booster is crap. and people that keep pushing c16, why? it is overkill and overpriced imo

how about the aem tru-boost? it will match and works great as a boost controller. the maftpro boost controller, not so much.