Search results

Since were on the subject of amsoil vs xxxx oil... Jdub, this guy at my work sells amsoil and he swears up and down its the best oil. He just couldnt shut up about how its soo much better than the rest. Now i know "best" is a relative term, but, in your opinion... Is Redline or amsoil...

YES. i have this same thing, and its super annoying cause it screws with me under hard braking. Especially when im coming to a stoplight.... i've been far too busy to look into it.

Just a guess, but arent those kinds of "cave-in's" consistant with detonation? you can see a little black trail from the fire ring to the copper one right where it pushes it... why not just get a MHG and measure the block, and head to see what size you need to get your compression back to OEM?

Are these the numbers WITH a bhg? head and block may have been shaved a lot, and on a stock HG, your not compensating for that different heights, so it moves the combustion chambers close to the piston. i remember my n/a only having like... 180psi?... maybe you have n/a pistons in your gte...

go to an exhaust shop, or any other aftermarket shop that does installs... it wont cost you $20 if you have them do it, but it wont be nearly as expensive as the one on ebay...

never said WOT... no reason to go WOT on a fresh motor, wanted to make sure it would boost on part throttle/ low boost before i went WOT and had something go wrong... but once i do wot it was only 5psi... hahaha, but 5mm of washers put me at 8psi now.

i do a weekly WOT pull in 2nd to 6k, and 3rd to 5k... but then im going fast enough to be thrown in jail... andddd my dad would not want to come get me out... i did the first 4 miles with high vacuum, and then i got into boost, only 4psi, but still positive pressure on the rings.

redline makes something like this, it treats up to 12 quarts of oil per bottle. so you could "treat" your engine for two changes after a rebuild. and they call it a "break-in" oil also...

i made my own out of two bends of metal... its not hard at all, and you can weld the stock metal fittings that are in the OEM intake too btw. i used a fluxcore welder, so it welds good enough for me to look at. Its not a structural part anyways...

This is the first i've heard that the 5-30 and 10-30 castrol syntec isnt as good as the 0-30... now im really glad i didnt buy some. and jdub, im technically "nor-cal"... im pretty close to borhor and all of those bay area guys, no where really close to so-cal... where did you find out the...

Jdub... i didnt cheap out at all when it came to the machine shop, i forked out $1300 to have it done "right"... the SHOP installed the seals, checked over the head, and were suppose to do the shim adjustment. The one thing they did good was to deck the head super flat, and a really smooth...

im just frustrated with the whole situation... im not saying all shops are bad, its just the guy who ran this one made it sound like he knew what he was doing, he even had a supra head on the counter when i got there that was ready to be picked up and it looked really good. i guess i just got...

i've thought about going back... but im sure they'll pull the shit that, they didnt assemble the whole engine, so who knows what could have happened once i got it home... and i just honestly dont feel like ever dealing with that "shop" again... im going to redo the seals, redo the shims, and...

my thoughts exactly... but how they managed to completely RIP one and not do anything about is beyond me... defintaley learned my lesson when it comes to machine shops... im happy its not my rings though. :biglaugh: oh, and they were "high qualit viton rubber seals" just like the ones...

Well i discovered after switching to german castrol 0-30, that i no longer smoged... until i would only get 20psi of oil pressure... well i had to add 4qts in order to get back above the "full line".... so assuming that, i only had 2quarts of oil in my engine... now how in the world did i burn...

but thats whats so funny... -40? castrol doesnt even give you the viscosity of the oil at "cold"... it just says it flows really good... uhh... how bout some numbers? go look up redline, and they tell you both. thats what i like to see, and read. oh... and when was the last time you...

too bad you cant find the GREEN stuff anymore, which is what everybody was raveing about... this "german" stuff is funny really... all i know is that walmart had 5 quarts, for $20... which if you do the math, is a CRAZY GOOD DEAL. Im not here to debate whether or not the "german" stuff is...

never saw somebody mention what weight they wanted... the difference between 5w30 and 0w30 is minimal... and from what jdub has said about the supra's oiling system, they want an oil viscosity with the cst of about 10~... 0-30 according to castrol is 12.1 and the 5w30 is actually 9.7...

yeah, walmart for $20 for 5 quarts in the big bottle... i was dumb founded when i saw it... too bad i get a killer deal on redline now. haha

rings are cheap, its normally the labor that is espensive... and if you re-ring the engine, and put in new bearings, obvisouly have them both checked. Bearings are cheap, there like 125? on driftmotion for the clevite77's... and rings arent much either, so if you dont care about the head, then...