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my brother redid the cps, and he got it... so who knows. but i have some other issues... it idles at like 500ish rpms and i have no trouble codes, although i found a bad wire on the o2, but i fixed that and nothing else changed... and im pretty sure i have a "whistle" from somewhere in my...

So i had some issues, there fixed now, buttt... my timing WAS off, and now since i redid the physical timing with the belt and cam gears, its 100% accurate. Both of the intake and exhaust cams line up perfectly with the marks on the cover, and the crank is at 0 degrees and i know my crank key is...

new thread time, mods close this one please.

i also did that a few times... buttt my cps ohm ok, so i dont really have a reason to suspect that yet. My igniter on the other hand, was only able to test one of the leads correctly, but i didnt get what i was suppose to.... which was the momentary contact/voltage... we'll see what happens when...

i have the little "igniter mod" where you bolt in a seperate ground.... the thing that is bothering me is that i pulled the engine two weeks ago... redo the valve stem seals, slap on a new MHG... and put it all back in, and then my igniter is bad? wtf? it ran "fine" before... aside from the...

there is an o-ring on the housing to block surface. if it was not put back when the block was torn apart for the rebuild then thats most likely the problem.

sooooo your saying that if you spend $150 to surface a $30 part its ok, beucase you got one hell of a flat surface? there becomes a point where paying for what you get is silly to say.

im not worried about it. and i removed them because i wanted to. so i think its my igniter thats bad, so im going to find all of the threads i can on that...

$50 to surface that? took a long time? you sir need to find a different shop...

So after tracing some wires, and doing some tests, im pretty sure since i removed the abs control box (in the engine). I dont have spark at all, not any, but i have fuel, and i have no codes from the ecu. Any advice? or how can i fool my car into thinking i have the abs module in, but not?

my craftsman SHORT 12pt 14mm stocket with a 3'' extension, and then a 3/8'' to 1/2'' adapter ton my torque wrench got to every single one of the arp nuts no problem. theres not that much thread that comes up once the nut is on, so you can fully torque them to the arp specs.

I've been driving this girls golf for the past week... she lets me drive it to work, to get food, i've just been working on the supra after work... its not that bad i guess, but having no boost is FTL...

I only bought it because it was $200, and i had the thinking "lower compression means i can run more boost"... and i also thought "lower compression wont be that bad"... yeah... well i wasted my money. but i have a question for you jdub, theoretically, could i remove the rivets, and take out...

i know this is going to sound crazy, but if its just the screen your talking about. My buddy's blew the little 1/2amp fuse inside of it... and we un-soldered it, and resoldered one it, and it booted up great... we never did figure out why it happened... the way we tested it was by using a 12v...

i got my jaws DS through aaron at DM, and i talked to jaws directly, and lets just say i'll never buy from them again. I couldnt go over 90mph in my n/a with the 1-piece steel DS i bought from them... And with the one i got, i had to get new hardware because the mounting flange was thicker...

I bought an HKS 3mm MHG... and i just swapped it out with a Titan (cometic) 1.4mm... and they looked IDENTICAL. The coating was even the same color... both were covered in it, the only issue i saw was that i had to remove two rivets from the titan and only one from the HKS... so far i havent...

i was thinking the same! Hommer is still alive!!!!! his shits gonna be crazy when its all done....

I was gonna say... both my 86.5 (n/a) and 90 (turbo) had the bottom type...

if your that worried about breaking a 1-piece driveshaft, then get a shaftmasters 2 piece. it has a new front section to shave the weight, a NEW carrier bearing, and a oem rear section that they rebalance as a whole. http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21 you...

have you not found it on arp's site yet? and i believe it was 80ft lbs... but i would double check. and REMEMBER, when you torque them, make sure there is plenty of moly lube being used. other wise the torque reading will be off.