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i pulled and put the starter back in, took less than 45mins... get a stubby wrench set, and get a 3ft extensions with a swivel. all it took for me.

I've had quite a few friends have surge, and every time it ends up being the line to the bov. make sure its a BIG hose, not some tiny one thats being crammed on there, and try to make sure its a dedicated line just for the BOV. shimmed (5mm) pump oil readings: cold - 40-60psi (depends on...

what about sanding them by hand on a piece of marble or something? it worked good for doing the shims for the head when i needed a really specific size.. but if all fails just have a machine shop do it.

Depends on how much boost your running though, keep that in mind. 6psi spools much faster than 15 or 20...

what grim jack said... i removed my elbow in 15mins due to me using a ratcheting wrench like that... i've never been a fan of the one with the "tilting" head...

have you verified that its even hooked up properly? just because the little cover is on doesnt mean that the sender is on the little connector. and its a bitch to do...

after doing a HG job with and just doing one without them... i would say use them. They align the gasket MUCH better than the studs ever will... with them in it only slides about 1-2mm back and forth instead of 3-4mm... and getting it linded up is pretty important.

just a forewarning about "having a machine shop assemble your engine is the best $200 ever"... errr... i had 22 out of 24 vavle stem seals torn when i pulled my head on a motor with less than 2000miles... mind you i paid $500 for a valve job... so i dont know, i have faith in my own work...

and if you WATCH the supra had to stop drifting because a car came right at it.... but for drifting... 240 > ma70

i was going to go through aaron @ driftmotion, or through probe them selves.. just never got to ordering them. and do you know what you filed the gap too on the rings? maybe number 5 you didnt open enough?

if your airbag is on, pull the control box from under the center console and then theres no more light. i love momo wheels.

taka - adjust the master cylinder rod that comes into the car. Or just adjust everything according to the TSRM. oh, and i got my line for hella cheap, so i said why not!

two cracks actually. and these motors are soooooooo freakin tiny compared to the supra. its hilarious actually.

make sure theres no AIR in your system.

Car: 1990 240sx Engine: CA18DET (helllllllla jdm) The Job: His headgasket started to "seep" out the side by two of the water jackets, thus resulting in water pouring out from between his head and block. So he pulled it, im doing a valve job and replacing the stem seals for him, and also...

couldnt that just be "soot" from the exhaust and moisture mixing and then making it look like oil? but when it dries it will leave the black soot behind...

i think it made my aftermarket clutch "softer" cause it felt just like the stock one that was in their before i pulled the motor. and im running the southbend dxd, which is just a modified aisin pressure plate, but still, it feels really nice and easy, but you still have that "direct" feel...

if your going to pull the cam covers, check both of your cam seals while your at it.

i have a full SS braided line from the master to the slave, and i like it. Zero issues and you can route it as you please.

sure its not the back of the head? i thought i had a seal in the back of my engine leaking, and it turned out to be the exhaust cam seal was leaking, and it would run down the sides of the my head and puddle like the rear main was leaking... crazy huh?