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show us the hotside... and is that a 3'' in/2'' out on the compressor housing?

easiest way to get it on and torque it properly, when the engine is out of the car, is to put the flywheel on, get a piece of metal and put one bolt on the flywheel holding it, and one bolt on the block so it cant spin. normally the bolt comes off before you snap the piece of metal, and i...

leaky throttle body, you could have it leaking in from the little port on the bottom of the manifold, or you could have a leaky ISC... when you really start thinking about where the coolant runs through, theres quite a few places. and check your plugs to see if its localized to one...

have you done a leak down test to confirm its the headgasket?

i was responding to post #4 IJ.... but for the OP: just get a flange, and weld it onto the manifold on the bottom side if you dont wanna see it.

20 degrees?... not that low. it shoots fuel in depending on the coolant temp.

you could try to put a independent ground on the igniter, and on the coilpack. its not like its going to hurt anything... and drive the car for 500miles, and then pull the plugs and see what cylinder is misfiring, because if your "miss" is anything like mine, your plugs will tell the story...

you should PM suprarich on here (he runs SIP racing) and see if he'll give you a better deal than the ebay ad.

ROFL... nahhhh. that shit was CRAZY though... and it only got worse. my hometown is now known for something i wish it wasnt... but whatever, i'll be moving soon enough.

if it ohms out right, then it should be fine... follow TSRM procedure to test.

uhh.... to have 375hp out of a wrx, you need more than just what you listed... he needs fuel injectors, pump, and an upgraded turbo at the least. i've gotten a ride in my friends car which has a FP Green, supposedly has ~330awhp, and that thing pulls like a raped ape with the STI 6 speed and...

you gain the most from the downpipe/elbow combo downpipes. a cat-back will add HP, but spend more money on the downpipe first. there are HUGE gains to be made over the stock downpipe setup.

unless he had the diff split 30/70 so he was sending his power to the rear im not suprised at all... wrx's arent highway cars at all. RWD > AWD nice quad-kill though.

because for 90% of us here dont need a 2.75 pipe, especially just on a stock or upgraded ct-26... plus most of the people here are on FFIM's who need the bigger piping, very few are left who run a 3'' pipe from the IC to the TB the stock route.

you mean this? im sure its cheaper through aaron too... lol http://store.driftmotion.com/Static/Itemclutchreleasehubkitr154.php

and for the recirc hose, you "could" place the BOV on the charge pipe from the turbo to IC... but ideally you want it close to the TB... but either use PVC hose, or some copper tubing with some 1'' couplers on the end, and make a custom intake so that way you can have the BOV port on the...

if you want a shit ton of couplers in your piping system do this: buy the lipp kit cut in a bunch of random spots buy a bunch of 2.5'' couplers and t-bolts put it all together, and now you have the ghetto cooleze kit... how is the LIPP NOT have "character" and style? the cooleze are welded...

i think you'll find that the GTR would use just as much fuel... its a heavier car, and its AWD... but your nitpicking this, the GTR isnt that great of a car, its called HYPE for a reason... and the zr1 shouldnt have to change its pads, there a great design with PLENTY of rotor to disapate...

the ZR1 was designed to just be FAST. and they did a damn good job at it... although i give a big thumbs up to nissan for the GTR... but i still dont see why they changed from the I6.... stay true to your roots!

Just because something is AWD doesnt make it godly in one section of motoring... watch this, has HP/TQ for BOTH the zr1 and the gtr... theres some suprising results, zr1 has more power, stops faster, handles more lateral g's, and is faster on the track... zr1 > gtr...