One year oil/filter change
- Thread starter suprarenz
- Start date
Sounds like you are asking opinions...I almost moved this thread out of the Lube section for that reason...it's for more technical type questions.
So, I'm going to give you a technical answer...shouldn't be hard to figure out
Concerning the Amsoil EaO filter, it's the best of the conventional filters out there. You're gonna pay for it though :runaway:
It is rated for 25,000 miles...personally I would not go that mileage, but would go 1 year if mileage was in the 15K range.
Personally, I'm not going to go over 8K for changing the oil without doing analysis.
Here's what Amsoil says about extended oil drain intervals:
Amsoil Signature series (SSO) 0W-30
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.
For Amsoil (ASL) 5W-30
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.
*OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer
(1) Engines operating under modified conditions are excluded from extended drain recommendations. Examples include the use of performance computer chips; non-OEM approved exhaust, fuel or air induction systems; and the use of fuels other than those recommended for normal operation by the manufacturer.
(2) Mechanically sound engines are in good working condition and do not, for example, leak oil or consume excessive amounts, are not worn out, do not overheat, do not leak anti-freeze and have properly working emission control systems. AMSOIL recommends repairing malfunctioning engines prior to the installation of AMSOIL synthetic oils.
(3) Personal vehicles frequently traveling greater than 10 miles (16 km) at a time and not operating under severe service.
(4) Turbo/supercharged vehicles, commercial or fleet vehicles, extensive engine idling, first and subsequent use of AMSOIL in vehicles with over 100,000 miles, daily short trip driving less than 10 miles (16 km), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition driving
Read the notes carefully
So, I'm going to give you a technical answer...shouldn't be hard to figure out
Concerning the Amsoil EaO filter, it's the best of the conventional filters out there. You're gonna pay for it though :runaway:
It is rated for 25,000 miles...personally I would not go that mileage, but would go 1 year if mileage was in the 15K range.
Personally, I'm not going to go over 8K for changing the oil without doing analysis.
Here's what Amsoil says about extended oil drain intervals:
Amsoil Signature series (SSO) 0W-30
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.
For Amsoil (ASL) 5W-30
• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.
*OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer
(1) Engines operating under modified conditions are excluded from extended drain recommendations. Examples include the use of performance computer chips; non-OEM approved exhaust, fuel or air induction systems; and the use of fuels other than those recommended for normal operation by the manufacturer.
(2) Mechanically sound engines are in good working condition and do not, for example, leak oil or consume excessive amounts, are not worn out, do not overheat, do not leak anti-freeze and have properly working emission control systems. AMSOIL recommends repairing malfunctioning engines prior to the installation of AMSOIL synthetic oils.
(3) Personal vehicles frequently traveling greater than 10 miles (16 km) at a time and not operating under severe service.
(4) Turbo/supercharged vehicles, commercial or fleet vehicles, extensive engine idling, first and subsequent use of AMSOIL in vehicles with over 100,000 miles, daily short trip driving less than 10 miles (16 km), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition driving
Read the notes carefully
I need you opinion jdub.
I recently found out that my dad can get AMSOIL oil on his shop's discount, but even with his discount I'd still be paying $7.50 per quart. In my area, the GC runs me $6.80 per quart. Judging by the "Your favorite motor oil" thread, you touched base on the AMSOIL oil, and it seems as if it wouldn't be worth paying an additional $.70 per quart to switch from GC.
I like the cold flow properties of the GC, and how thick it actually is at operating temperature. If I were to switch, it looks like the AMSOIL would be a bit thinner at operating temps. Other than the difference in the thickness of the oils, are there any other differences that might make it worth the additional money to switch to AMSOIL; or am I just better off saving some cash, and sticking with GC like I've been doing?
(If it makes any difference, I only put on around 8,000 miles per year; which are mostly summer miles, so I'd only be changing that oil once per year).
I recently found out that my dad can get AMSOIL oil on his shop's discount, but even with his discount I'd still be paying $7.50 per quart. In my area, the GC runs me $6.80 per quart. Judging by the "Your favorite motor oil" thread, you touched base on the AMSOIL oil, and it seems as if it wouldn't be worth paying an additional $.70 per quart to switch from GC.
I like the cold flow properties of the GC, and how thick it actually is at operating temperature. If I were to switch, it looks like the AMSOIL would be a bit thinner at operating temps. Other than the difference in the thickness of the oils, are there any other differences that might make it worth the additional money to switch to AMSOIL; or am I just better off saving some cash, and sticking with GC like I've been doing?
(If it makes any difference, I only put on around 8,000 miles per year; which are mostly summer miles, so I'd only be changing that oil once per year).
My biggest beef with Amsoil is how they market and jack prices up. It is a good oil though and if you can get it cheap, I'd use it.
GC IMO has a better additive pack and you can catch sales promotions on it if you watch the paper (I bought a case at around $5 a qt a while back). Amsoil would be better for winter starts, but GC is better for summer driving and it's no slouch in the winter either. Amsoil is not good enough to justify a $0.70 increase...now, if you can get it for $5 a quart, different story
GC IMO has a better additive pack and you can catch sales promotions on it if you watch the paper (I bought a case at around $5 a qt a while back). Amsoil would be better for winter starts, but GC is better for summer driving and it's no slouch in the winter either. Amsoil is not good enough to justify a $0.70 increase...now, if you can get it for $5 a quart, different story
^^^ Thanks for your input, and given the fact that I do most of my driving in the summer; it looks like I'll be sticking with GC.
Since were on the subject of amsoil vs xxxx oil...
Jdub, this guy at my work sells amsoil and he swears up and down its the best oil. He just couldnt shut up about how its soo much better than the rest. Now i know "best" is a relative term, but, in your opinion...
Is Redline or amsoil better?
Jdub, this guy at my work sells amsoil and he swears up and down its the best oil. He just couldnt shut up about how its soo much better than the rest. Now i know "best" is a relative term, but, in your opinion...
Is Redline or amsoil better?
Taking into consideration what I said above about Red Line, it is one of the top oils on the market...it's base stock is 2nd to none. Can I justify buying it at increased cost? No, I can't, but I don't fault anyone for using it either.
Amsoil is also a very good oil, but it is also expensive for what you get. Their top-of-the-line SSO 0W-30 is $11.95 a quart...Red Line is $9.95 a quart at Summit. No way I would choose Amsoil at this price. ASL 5W-30 is better at $8.90 a quart, but you have to keep the comparison true...you can get GC all day for $6.45 a quart, even less when you catch a sale.
When you are talking about oils in the Grp IV & V category, price becomes a factor. Paying the premium for Red Line or SSO produces small incremental value for what you get. Even a Grp III oil like Pennzoil Platinum is a superb choice even though it is not a PAO or ester based oil because it has such a good additive pack.
If you look at the numbers for any of the oils I mentioned, you will see they are very similar...the differences your friend may "feel" is pure placebo effect.
Next time ask him what makes Amsoil better, and back it up. Then ask him if he does oil analysis on his motor and what does it show? Then ask him how does he know it will produce the same results in your engine.
All the tests Amsoil touts on their website are fine, but analysis is what tells you what is really going on in YOUR motor. Motors are different, driving style is different, and climate is different...all these can be on identical cars and will give different results using the same oil. Comparisons for different motor models, types, etc will always produce different results with the same oil.
Keep one more thing in mind...oils are like Vodka, the more distilled it is the better
You could run WalMart SuperTech in your engine and be fine if you stick to a good change interval. The key to motor longevity is maintenance, good filtration and analysis to see if this oil or that oil results in excessive wear.
Amsoil is also a very good oil, but it is also expensive for what you get. Their top-of-the-line SSO 0W-30 is $11.95 a quart...Red Line is $9.95 a quart at Summit. No way I would choose Amsoil at this price. ASL 5W-30 is better at $8.90 a quart, but you have to keep the comparison true...you can get GC all day for $6.45 a quart, even less when you catch a sale.
When you are talking about oils in the Grp IV & V category, price becomes a factor. Paying the premium for Red Line or SSO produces small incremental value for what you get. Even a Grp III oil like Pennzoil Platinum is a superb choice even though it is not a PAO or ester based oil because it has such a good additive pack.
If you look at the numbers for any of the oils I mentioned, you will see they are very similar...the differences your friend may "feel" is pure placebo effect.
Next time ask him what makes Amsoil better, and back it up. Then ask him if he does oil analysis on his motor and what does it show? Then ask him how does he know it will produce the same results in your engine.
All the tests Amsoil touts on their website are fine, but analysis is what tells you what is really going on in YOUR motor. Motors are different, driving style is different, and climate is different...all these can be on identical cars and will give different results using the same oil. Comparisons for different motor models, types, etc will always produce different results with the same oil.
Keep one more thing in mind...oils are like Vodka, the more distilled it is the better
You could run WalMart SuperTech in your engine and be fine if you stick to a good change interval. The key to motor longevity is maintenance, good filtration and analysis to see if this oil or that oil results in excessive wear.
I personally "wont" go for one year on the same oil + filter... I run Synthetic oil in my application and change it every 4K or 6 months, whichever comes first, but u could actually go with it, it's a great quality product and a buddy of mines is doing that and he hasnt had any problems with it so far...
AwAis1JZ;1215203 said:
Depends on what oil you're calling a "synthetic". A PAO or ester based oil will go 8,000 miles easy with a filter change at 4K. Like I said above, over that I would do analysis to make sure it's still up to the task.
good stuff here
im using redline with dual filters (napa gold and trasko filters) on the new oil cooling system. change filters at 4500 miles and top off oil along with a oil analysis. change oil between 9000-10000 miles depending on the results of the analysis.
i was using penzoil platinum before which i highly recommend, but im willing the pay the difference for the redline due to its superiority and bigger change intervals
im using redline with dual filters (napa gold and trasko filters) on the new oil cooling system. change filters at 4500 miles and top off oil along with a oil analysis. change oil between 9000-10000 miles depending on the results of the analysis.
i was using penzoil platinum before which i highly recommend, but im willing the pay the difference for the redline due to its superiority and bigger change intervals
i just got a decent deal on a case of mobil 1 14,000 mile synthetic. i wont leave it in there for 14k miles but i will be doing lube oil analysis finally to see whats going on. ill probably go for 8k miles or so, most likely less but not less than 3k miles.
btw, if anyone in my area wants to do a lube oil analysis on their car my father is in the marine industry and has an account with caterpillar who provides the sampling kits and tests the samples for us.
btw, if anyone in my area wants to do a lube oil analysis on their car my father is in the marine industry and has an account with caterpillar who provides the sampling kits and tests the samples for us.
Pete - If you are doing analysis using Red Line, I would love to see it. If you could scan and post in the below thread, that would be awsome. Same for the Pennzoil Platinum if you have one.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66757
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66757
jdub;1253352 said:
yea no problem. i am scheduled to change filters in about 2000 miles. some time towards the end of march.... so i figure thats a good time to get it analyzed. ill let you know