Part of the reason rods benefit from "Shot peening" is a reduction of any scratches that would act like dotted lines.
The peening process also relaxes the metal too. (Destresses it from what I understand.)
Stress risers are the point where cracks start. (As IJ noted, you never want them...
Was just planning on stuffing it in the radio pocket, but might put it in the glove box, or some variation of that. (Tucked under the right corner of the center console with enough wire loose so it can be brought up and used, then tucked away the rest of the time.)
The Canton version works well too. If you have a valve installed, you can close the valve before you shut down, then open it before you start up the engine, and pre-lube the motor every time. (Should minimize any wear, the only time my engine is "dry" started is after oil changes and I dump the...
Nice post, and good tips. :)
If you re-use any MHG, make sure you clean it first with brake cleaner. (Takes off all the hylomar/rubber etc.) Generally that stuff tends to degrade over time. My Greddy MHG did not have any from the start.
I've found the Brake Quiet to be very effective on...
Hot tank work is fine. It just destroys the soft metals in your block.
The sonic tank is hot too, but not as hot, and they don't use acids. It uses sound to vibrate the crap loose on your engine, and it's amazing how well it cleans up parts with minimal damage to anything.
Cleaning up...
Buy a ring file. (No shit, that's the name.. and they cut both ways..)
Now, get a good vise... turn it sideways.. and clamp your ring file into the vise so it's sticking out at you.
Now, using a piston crown (Upside down) to push the ring down even to the lands on the piston. (Use the...
I agree, use the specs called for by each of those suppliers.
ARP and Crower should have that provided with their parts.
My ARP head studs are at 103lbs with moly lube. (Too high say some.) :)
My ARP main studs are at what ARP suggested..I don't remember actually..
My Pauter rod...
That is a nice write up, and in a pinch, it would be better than nothing...
Here is the problem. As the writer of the oil pan drop, bearing replacement thread noted, his bearings seemed to have one that failed, and then took out the other..
Some of that debris is for sure trapped in the...
Starter works every time. (I like going from the underside, breaker bar, pipe and leave it up against the frame rail.. then get away and click the starter over... and she's loose.)
Just keep fingers and faces you'd like to keep in good shape away from this contraption..
Simple really, just jump start it.. and I'll bet your starter will turn over..
Of course, your battery sounds pretty tired, so it may, or may not come up to where it will start the car again without a jump from another good battery/vehicle.
Hm, did not know about the bearing failure on the pinion..
Any way to resolve this, or just run synthtic and hope for the best?
ON the slipping clutch deal, I've found that adding powdered molydisulfied to your diff oil makes the clutches stick. (So much in fact, that on a good unit, it...
I've ported two stock manifolds, not sure it's worth any more power, even with the bolt on T4 based turbo's...
Stock manifold has each port running into the other, and some at terrible angles and such. There are also casting flaws, and rough areas that can be smoothed out some, but it's...
Actually, that is the solinoid clicking..... YOUR BATTERY IS DEAD!
LOL :) LOL
Charge that sucker, or if it's gone bad, replace it with a new one. (The battery, not your starter... LOL)
I crack myself up..
Floor it more. :)
You could go to a smaller AR hot side, but might only spool up your turbo slightly sooner, and it would limit top end flow..
IIRC, Zazzn ran a .53... and loved the spool, but I don't think his was a T66...? Not sure on that actually.
My Master Power turbo has a .63 hot...
There are some stacked plate coolers that claim to have a thermostat function built into them. They internally bypass cooler oil, and then as it warms up, more flows though the smaller stacked plates...
Passive as there really is no valve. Just one larger opening, and then a stack of smaller...
Stick your magnet into your tail pipe and drive around. If there is metal in your exhaust, some will stick to the magnet...
Easy to see.
In my view, if your turbo was putting out so much metal you can see it, it would be not long for the world. (It's more likely the exhaust somehow.)
Rebuild, rebuild and low oil no more.
Infact, run your car one quart high, and you can't go wrong the second time around. (Do monitor your oil levels, especially if you have a known leak..)
No amount of trickery here will save what you described.. you need a rebuild.
Mine has the fan, 88T.
Makes fitting the FMIC and oil cooler a royal PITA, but I wanted to keep the fan there.
Most pusher fans like this don't work as well as pulled ones however. (They push air at the condensor, but much of that air is just deflected and does not go through the cooling...
Personally, unless you have a valve that is burned or warped, and that's not very likely, I WOULD NOT DO A VALVE JOB.
Keep all your shims and buckets seperate for each valve. (Use an egg carton and label it with a sharpie pen.)
If you do not mix up the valves/seats/shims/buckets, you...
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