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It will be nice to see this car running again. Love the hoses for the PCV system, those must have cost a pretty penny!

Shouldn't make a significant difference... the EGR cooler on the back of the head is used to cool off the exhaust, not the pipe itself.

Probably because a significant portion of the 'code' threads advise you to pull the EFI fuse to clear codes, then check again to see if the code returns...

Dead before arrival, like so many other projects.

Code 11 normally is due to a problem with the power / ground to the ECU. I'd suggest checking the ECU grounds where they attach to the bottom rear of the intake manifold.

Actually, if he's using a stock BPV, and it has failed, it will be open all the time. Open all the time means it's spilling quite a bit of compressed air back into the accordion hose, and it would build boost measurably slower.

Folks get into this 'turbo' debate all the time, and the fact is what they are bringing up is theoretical, first of all, and secondly not really germane to the actual reasons why turbos work so well. The reason turbos work is because they use exhaust flow to compress intake air. More...

Dealer items only. Try sending a message to Mark from Vancouver Toyota in Washington state. His name here is ra24man IIRC.

No, I'm too lazy for that. And I hate cleaning the inside of the windshield of all the little rings.

Could be a failed bypass valve, too... although with that, it should still boost to the normal levels, it just takes longer to get there. A few other things... how do you know how much it's boosting? Are you using the stock gauge? Clearly the exhaust isn't stock... what about the intercooler...

Keep in mind that anything other than the CT upgrades are not really bolt on units. You will still end up having to fab your own oil lines, and in some cases the water lines as well. Even the ones that don't use water cooling, you'll still need to deal with the water lines from the engine...

Correct... no changing the aim without messing about with the mount.

You can get all the bolts for the transmission off with it in the car, however... it's MUCH easier to pull both at once.

I use a GoPro HD. Works pretty awesome.

It would be significantly more difficult to do this way. First, you need to pull everything off the top of the block - manifolds, wiring harness, head... because the pistons can only come out the top of the block. Then, you would need access to the bottom of the block, so you'd need to support...

The problem with a Miata isn't the it's *own* blind spots, it's the blind spots for all the drivers around you. I've nearly run a Miata or two off the road when in the van - one time that sticks in my head, the only thing that saved the guy was a flag on his antenna. Without that flag, even...

That needs shaved moldings to look right... bolt on fender flares over moldings is weird.

If it still has stock intercooler / intake piping, I expect both the accordion hose pre-turbo AND the charge pipe off the bottom of the turbo will have big cracks in 'em. I have yet to see a car with any real mileage on it where those pieces are in good shape unless they've already been replaced.

Long ago, I made it a habit to *always* shoulder check. It's saved me far more accidents than it's caused. Of course, I was driving a Ford cargo van at the time, with blind spots large enough to provide cover for medium sized sedans.

Sounds like a boost leak to me. Have you checked the engine codes?