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I've done at least two dozen spring/strut swaps on various mk3's N/A and turbo, early years and late years, never needed a spring compressor. Once you remove the spring and strut assembly from the car there isn't much tension on the spring. No need for any specialized tools, just a regular...

With two 12mm wrenches or equivelant you can remove the cables from the throttle linkage assembly. That will allow you to remove the entire assembly.

The only things you need for the car to run properly is FPR and BOV. Heater control and cruise control are luxuries. PS idle up isn't needed. The car will still turn at idle, not die, and will still give you power steering assist - just not as much. I can still turn my wheel with a finger...

Turbo seals blown or leaking.

For a very cheap solution you could use something like this: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1597&prmenbr=361 You'll need to find or make an adapter to fit it into the CSI port on the fuel rail.

I've always used the FIPG on motor rebuilds and never had any problems. Never tried a cork gasket, I doubt it's ability to work on a turbo Japanese motor. The non-cork Felpro engine gaskets I've used before, they seem to work alright.

Check your engine error codes. Initially it sounds like a boost leak, but maybe you've got some sort of turbo issue. Is it a high pitch whine or more of a squealing whine? What do you have installed on the car or what condition is the car giving you that tells you its running rich at idle?

Or VPC or MAP ECU, hell even the MAFT would work pretty well. Any of those solutions will be easier to implement. Remember the JDM 7m's use a few different sensors and there is no telling what other problems will pop up.

As strange as it may sound, it's coincidence. Code 52 only comes from the things I listed above. Absolutely nothing else will trip that code. It's also one of the worst codes to get. It pulls all your ignition timing, leaving you with little power. Also, a faulty or removed charcoal...

Exhaust leak has very little effect on A/F ratio. It does have a fairly large effect on turbo spoolup speed, but that's about it.

Look around for the two connectors that come from the body wiring harness. I doubt the prev owner removed everything related to that system. You could always just hardwire it or rewire in some new connectors. In the unlikely event that all the wiring was removed you could install either a...

Toyota made slight adjustments pretty much every year so little things like this will pop up. That's why I highly recommend buying your own TSRM and using it instead of the online one.

The charcoal canister has practically no effect at all on how the car runs. There just isn't enough gas fume volume to even make the car run slightly richer. Detonation will NEVER cause a code 52. The only things that cause 52 is bad knock sensor, bad knock sensor wiring (most likely), or...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_050.html you need to tap into the SPD terminal. Remember this diagram is shown looking at the connectors from the wire side.

Yes, so long as you don't do anything to modify FCO you could run a huge turbo with no problems. This is because FCO is based on airflow not boost. You'll run less boost and may even experience less power (depending on your turbo), but it won't hurt the car.

EVAP has very little effect on how the car runs. It won't cause any of the problems you've mentioned. Best way to check decel smoke is to just accelerate to about 60 in 3rd, then let off the gas with the car still in gear. Let the engine slow the car down until you're at about 10mph...

The left hand side of all the MA70 and JZA70's are the same (probably GA70 too). The right hand sides are all the same. However you can't swap the driver and passenger seat from the same chassis.

Blown turbo will blow smoke on decel and extended idle.

Hal's reasoning is solid, however it's not been the case. I bent and broke the stock mounts, as soon as I put the metal end links on I stopped doing any damage to that system. Been trouble free for the past 4 years.

There is no oil filter bracket on the N/A. The oil filter screws directly into the block. Nothing about the N/A oil system is better then the turbo, except that it's easier to reach the oil filter on the N/A because there is no turbo in the way :)