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I've had the best luck with Toyota bearings. But I've also seen people have good luck with the Clevites. A lot has to do with the machine work and installation of the bearings, you can spin any bearing if the machine work is garbage.

Make sure you use green plastigauge as well (don't remember if the TSRM specifies).

The Check Engine Light (CEL) only comes on with a very few select codes that Toyota deemed bad. Most codes the car gets won't even throw the CEL, you have to actually check the codes to find out what's wrong. Could be bad AFM, TPS, ISC, maybe even O2 sensor, that's why you need to check your...

It's a huge boost leak and power loss. Personally I like the HKS SSQV, but the whistle sound isn't for everyone. The RFL is nice and loud but the sound is plain IMO. Most of the aftermarket BOV's sound the same, just a generic whoosh but they vary in pitch and sound level. Low buck the Bosch...

Actually the ACIS system is purely mechanical. The ECU has nothing to do with it, however I doubt the calculations for the ACIS design work for the turbo.

I've heard of that happening to a few people. Personally I wouldn't even bother, that site has degraded to near uselessness.

Check engine error codes first. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html If no codes it's probably something mechanical like air filter, fuel filter, or simply needs a tuneup.

That's pretty odd there aren't many 3 wire electronics in that area. Perhaps the wires are aftermarket installed from the previous owner? All the VSV's in that area are 2 wire, the CSI is 2, TPS is 4, ISC is 5, AC is 1, reverse is 2, abs speed sensor is 2, alternator is two sets of 1 wire...

Stock ignition has plenty of power. Just make sure the plugs, wires, cap and rotor are in good condition and you're set ignition wise. The biggest gains with a 7mge are had through more efficient intake and exhaust systems, cams, cam gears, etc.

http://www.ma70.com/bishop/namod.html

You could, most of those hoses they will sell. You won't save that much money over Jeff Watson's prices and they probably won't fit as well as stock.

TEMS boots? You mean the upper TEMS dust cover, or the strut boot itself?

Well the timing is something you'd have to work out. Unless you have alternate transportation and you can spend a few hours a week working on it. Garages and lifts are nice, but in no way shape or form required. The main problem I have with shops besides the usual outrageous prices is they...

It will be hard to find silicone hoses that have the correct bends for most of the lines on the car. Personally I wouldn't worry about silicone for those lines anyway. Just get silicone for the intercooler hoses, use stock rubber for the coolant, oil and fuel.

The cheaper product lines of Autometer are notoriously inaccurate. If you're worried about engine health do a compression test. Typically vacuum is dependent on engine health, but even a small leak can change the reading you get. There are other factors that come into play though, that's why...

With just basic mechanical skills you could finish the job in 3 full weekends tops. With the motor out the clutch change is ridiculously easy. N/A's are easier then turbo, but still turbo isn't that bad.

Almost forgot to add, change your oil as soon as possible (assuming the motor is still good). Overheating tends to break down the oil quicker.

If it's rubber, replace it. All coolant lines, oil lines, fuel lines, gaskets, etc. Upgraded radiator, new water pump, thermostat are also good ideas.

I've seen some badly abused MA70 suspensions in my day but I've never seen that upper mount go bad. http://www.ma70.com/bishop/pics/old_pillowball.jpg It's pretty much just a solid chunk of metal.

Give the man a prize!