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Aftermarket alarm with remote door unlock. Saves a lot of wear and tear on your keys and locks.

:withstupi Also the higher octane fuels will contain things that your stock O2 sensor is not going to like.

Turbo whistle = sweet Turbo squeal = ouch You may have a small exhaust leak as well, that can really bring the turbo sound out. The turbo is always spinning when the car is running, and it's actually moving extremely fast just when you're driving down the road normally. So it's normal to hear...

Check your engine error codes as well. They might have damaged some electronics. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html

LOL, work slacked off for a bit :)

That mount doesn't go bad unless extremely abused. The only thing that might is the rubber piece that goes in between the spring and mount. If the shock is not properly tightened inside the mount then it will rattle. It's a bit tricky as the half moon shape tends to strip out, especially if...

RC, and I would buy new o-rings regardless. Very cheap insurance.

First off as soon as your car is warmed up it should have pressure in the system and you shouldn't be able to squeeze the upper radiator hose far. That's not a function of the water pump or thermostat, that's a function of heat expansion. Are you checking your coolant level via the overflow or...

The hoses you're talking about that run through the ISC and throttle body are a horrible setup. First thing they do when they fail is spray coolant all over your vital electronics. I'd recommend just bypassing that setup. Keeps the intake a little cooler and is one less point of failure. The...

Nope.

If it won't go above 3300 then you definitely have some other problem. Even a poorly tuned car will rev to redline. The Lexus AFM/550 seems to amplify any problems like boost leak or vacuum leak when it comes to idle. 99% of the time a boost leak is the #1 hose coming off the bottom of the...

The throttle bodies are in totally different places, the brackets mount in the exact same positiong, and you would gain nothing by switching. You can remove the cruise control cable but that's about it. I wouldn't even worry about it if you've got a FFM in the works.

The TPS on the 7m is actually extremely sensitive. If the ECU doesn't get exactly the signal it expects it throws a code 51. Most of the time the TPS just needs a little adjustment. You'll need a set of feeler gauges, a multimeter/ohmmeter and a philips screwdriver. Use the TSRM...

I've seen that problem before. Put a cheapy A/F gauge on, or a multimeter and watch the A/F's when you're driving. Try to hook them up as close to the ECU to include as much of the wiring as a possible problem.

Could be either. Use the TSRM to trace down your problem further. Double check your ECU grounds on the manifold, check for codes, etc.

Code 51 is TPS, which can definitely make the ECU mess with timing. You need to adjust your TPS until the code goes away. Then you will be able to reliably check the timing, although I would suspect your CPS is still off a tooth, this would only explain the timing not jumping around.

Not too sure about the internals of our ECU. If it burned out yours then likely it will just do it again with a new ECU.

Interesting. The car shouldn't really care where the sensor is mounted as long as it gets a good signal. Perhaps your bracket or mount point was not allowing a good ground through the block?

NP, one thing I forgot to mention for anyone else doing this. It's much more important to tap the VPC hole properly then the EGT hole. Air leak there is bad. So what I did was run the tap in about 1/3 of the way in, just barely enough so the sensor would thread in and get tight before the...

year:1992 transmission:5spd r154 mods (be detailed, turbo, inj, exhaust, etc.):lots type of driving seen:moderate to heavy, I typically drive just a bit over the speed limit on the highway, and boost frequently in the city average miles per gal:17 city, 24 highway average capacity of...