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never regret buying tools, you never know when you might need them.

+1 I think the best mod I've done to my car was my AEM standalone. I didn't need it at my power level (stock turbo stock fuel) but it opens up a world of opportunity for tuning. I can run speed density, so I am no longer limited to the AFM and the stock fuel cut. My car made 320rwhp on a dyno...

I want to test drive one.

depends. do you want cheap wheels right now, don't care that much about weight or quality? if so, get something like XXR. care about quality, want a nice lightweight wheel, a nice brand name, and original looks? get Volk, Work, etc.

Those injectors won't be big enough for your goals, you will likely need another fuel pump or a bigger one, you will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and at that power level, a standalone ECU is highly recommended (talk to local shops/tuners to find what they like, no point in buying...

did you oil it? they can sometimes bind if they are dry, but if you pour a small amount of oil down them it seems to help.

this may be a simple question, but did you remove the lock nut? if the splines are stuck, have you tried spraying the whole thing with a good quality penetrating spray? and for reference: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=RA&P=6

don't think so, part of a speedo cable I think. I'll double check on the weekend though

Bill or Randy?

I'll probably be picking parts up starting this weekend, not sure when it will all be in. I'm also looking at getting new carpet and seat skins in the next little bit, and I got a Personal wheel from Ryan, so the interior will be quite different. also:

no, we had to advance it a bunch if I recall. also had to take a bunch of fuel out, as it seems to be set up on the very rich is safe side. like clouds of black smoke, 10:1 everywhere safe. it doesn't really matter too much which standalone you run, as long as you have a good tuner. Bill at...

you must have done something seriously wrong to have an injector stuck wide open for 3 minutes. the fuel pump priming will not flood the motor, it will just cycle the fuel through the rail. the aem base tune isn't great, but within about 20 minutes we had the car somewhat driveable, just by...

there are a few people working on new budget front kits (for various wheel sizes), and for the rear you can do the WRX rotor with EVO caliper, just search as there is a whole thread discussing it.

the "base map" with the aem is not driveable. it is just enough to get you started (usually), it needs a lot of adjustment depending on your engine setup.

if you can install and tune a standalone, you can install a Ford ISCV and never worry about it again. hell, my car with the AEM idles fine with no ISCV.

haven't touched my car in a month, need to charge the battery and try the new tune once the weather is decent. also picking up the new grey interior starting this weekend, so if anyone wants cheap/free burgandy interior parts I'll have lots.

looks good, and something that fits under a 16" wheel will have a big market if you choose to reproduce them

PM me a price shipped to V8R1A2 I need to install an idle speed control onto my Mustang TB, but don't have the room with my current setup.

does this setup mount the alt any lower than the standard drop-down brackets?

if it chatters, you slip the shit out of it until it goes away.