Supra MK3 supporting mods questions...

[Devin Hutchison]

I'm going to be pushing my car to 550, ultimately 700 RWHP. Right now though, what is important is that I prepare the car. I've went with a Fast, reliable route rather than a Fast and cheap route. This is going to be a daily.


Here is the current specs...


Rebuilt 7mgte with wiseco pistons
eagle rods ACL bearings
Lexus AFM
PTE 550 injectors
3" exhaust
CX racing intercooler kit - Not yet installed.
IS300 coil pack
MBC at 15 psi
walbro 255 fuel pump
Stock ct26 - Going out.



Now a few noob questions.

I want to buy a Down pipe, as the current one is stock. I believe I'll stick with a stock CT26 for now (Or should I go with a diff turbo?). Is a down pipe compatible with ANY turbo? I'll be going with a precision turbo in the future. Should I go with a divorced down pipe even though I have a 3" exhaust?

What is the recommended stand alone to tune with? Should I be asking local shops about this?

Am I fine with MBC or should I go to a electronic one?

Tire sizes...what size rim with what size tires should I run? Street-slick brands? I'm going to buy a new set of rims to keep street-slicks on for when I go out to meets, and the stock sawblades for DD.

I appreciate any and all replies and thoughts.

 

[planemos]

It all depends on money. How about some brakes? Stopping power. And suspension. A CT26 downpipe won't work on other turbos.

Asking local shops is a good idea. You want whoever tunes it to be familiar with the standalone and the 7MGTE ideally.

 

[Devin Hutchison]

Ah. I knew I was forgetting something. I have Tein HR coilovers.

Stopping power..stopping power! Good idea. I'll look into that. I'll probably just leave the DP stock for right now until the turbo upgrade.

 

[Enraged]

Those injectors won't be big enough for your goals, you will likely need another fuel pump or a bigger one, you will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and at that power level, a standalone ECU is highly recommended (talk to local shops/tuners to find what they like, no point in buying a standalone that no one can tune). You will not want to be running an MBC. Boost by gear can be very helpful, there are a few EBCs and standalones that can do that.

 

[radiod]

If you're looking for anywhere above 500hp at the wheels I'd second what Enraged has brought up. Standalone is pretty much a must in that power range. Ask local shops what they like and use, you're going to be happiest with what they can tune well and are familiar with if problems arise. You'll need more fuel. Here's a little worksheet a member came up with for rough guidlines of fuel vs. horsepower.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?147015-Injector-sizing-guide.

If you're going to be going to be going faster, stopping faster is just as important.

Manual boost controller would be fairly unpredictable and I'd highly recommend going with an electronic one (or have it integrated in to the standalone).

I wouldn't stick with the CT26 at all either. Even a 60-1 CT26 wouldn't reliably make that, you're going to need something more substantial. This means different exhaust manifold, downpipe, and likely wastegate.

As for tires, you'll probably want a 275 at a minimum in the back. I wouldn't look at anything smaller than an 8.5" rim for that. Even with fat tires like that you'll still likely spin them all the way through 3rd once the turbo spools unless they're a good sticky summer/track compound.

 

[Devin Hutchison]

If you're looking for anywhere above 500hp at the wheels I'd second what Enraged has brought up. Standalone is pretty much a must in that power range. Ask local shops what they like and use, you're going to be happiest with what they can tune well and are familiar with if problems arise. You'll need more fuel. Here's a little worksheet a member came up with for rough guidlines of fuel vs. horsepower.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?147015-Injector-sizing-guide.

If you're going to be going to be going faster, stopping faster is just as important.

Manual boost controller would be fairly unpredictable and I'd highly recommend going with an electronic one (or have it integrated in to the standalone).

I wouldn't stick with the CT26 at all either. Even a 60-1 CT26 wouldn't reliably make that, you're going to need something more substantial. This means different exhaust manifold, downpipe, and likely wastegate.

As for tires, you'll probably want a 275 at a minimum in the back. I wouldn't look at anything smaller than an 8.5" rim for that. Even with fat tires like that you'll still likely spin them all the way through 3rd once the turbo spools unless they're a good sticky summer/track compound.

Yea I'm not sticking with the CT26 at all. I'm wanting a precision.


Looking at that chart, I should just go ahead and purchase 1000cc injectors.

Looking into BBKs right now.

 

[destrux]

You're going to want to ditch the stock wheels even for DD duties if you're planning on making that much power. They're just not going to hold enough tire.

 

[Devin Hutchison]

You're going to want to ditch the stock wheels even for DD duties if you're planning on making that much power. They're just not going to hold enough tire.

Working on that, too. Wanting a nice gold rim with a chrome lip, or a black with chrome lip or maybe a bronze. Any suggested brands?

 

[Enraged]

depends. do you want cheap wheels right now, don't care that much about weight or quality? if so, get something like XXR. care about quality, want a nice lightweight wheel, a nice brand name, and original looks? get Volk, Work, etc.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

We need pictures!

I have a set of Volks and they are super light.

 

[radiod]

tekdeus had put some really nice ones on his cherry widebody...

Shiny things are purdy!