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It is a casting, IIRC, alloyed with about 4% Mg. Chemically, it should weld to 6063 no problem; however, castings generally aren't the easiest to weld due to porosity and impurities. With that said, toyota Al castings are apparently better than most, so you should be ok. I had a 6061...

damn, shiny engine. looks great! be prepared for the fun to start once you get the engine running...and by fun, I mean tracking down all the little problems that have sprung up. (Just started my car up after a 3-year restoration). Adam

Took the car for a quick (well...slow) spin tonight. It ran about how I expected, like shit. I'm having some horrible low-speed (off-idle) bucking and an extremely touchy throttle, which tells me I probably need to re-adjust my TPS, and possibly adjust it out of the factory spec range to...

+1 on the tube bender.

damn, that hatch is actually pretty nice. its a shame that it doesn't really reduce much weight compared with stock though (assuming a glass window is used)

This nation as well. The entire up-and-coming generation which never had to work for anything has a generally terrible work ethic.

no, the other is positive crankcase ventilation. (idle up is on the bottom of the accordian tube)

:rofl::rofl:

259 pc set is what I picked up. Its got the 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets in deep, normal, 6, and 12-point. come to think of it, there are probably more than 8 12mm sockets... haven't gotten that much use out of them as I've got a few craftsmen sets where I work on my car, but they've...

Back in my stupider days, I used a 3/8 drive 19mm socket stepped up to a 1/2 inch wrench to remove the crank pulley.... Lets just say that the weak link was not the bolted connection. I can't say this was a defect with the tools though, it was moreseo a defect with the user.

Finally, a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Coq8zGmMkkI Changed the ISC valve and now the car idles perfectly smooth and constant at around 750 RPM. Just a note, the startup oil pressure was 50 psi...when the car got up to temperature, pressure dropped to 8 psi (which I'm fine with)...

if i remember correctly, I just cut off the tab that it interferes with or removed the arm all together. I can double check tonight. i've got a few pictures in my build thread about my TB modification...although I couldn't tell you where they are as photos are blocked at work...should be on...

48730A = lateral link 48710A = toe link 48780A = trailing link

you need to disable/adjust whatever it is that the waxstat pushes on to move the throttle linkage (there is an adjustment screw - it is painted white in this picture). That cylindrical thing parallel to the tb bore is the waxstat - you can follow the coolant lines to it. keep the coolant lines...

exactly what i was thinking...I'm pretty impressed with the ratchet set I bought - it is nice to have 8 different 12mm sockets...

*shakes fist* I'll get a video tonight....when it idles properly.

Wrong. There certainly is a screw on the Q45 TB that adjusts the opening of the throttle plate.

Are you running coolant through the TB? There is a waxstat on the throttle body that opens the throttle plate until the engine reaches temperature. You need to remove the linkage that attaches to this if you are not running coolant lines and/or you are running the supra ISC valve. If your...

reading>most of you.

my thoughts exactly.