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Yeah, the parents (and grandparents for that matter) have been spending more and more time in Vegas the last few winters...If it wasn't for hockey and skiing (and nearby family), I'd be somewhere a lot warmer. And that's why I spent 8 months down there (well, 3 in Melbourne anyway)...even NZ...

neither do we...lol -47 with a wind chill to -58 (night time) here a couple weeks back...nobody can get used to that.

it is pretty rare for the upper joints to loosen up unless there is some serious play in the lowers for a significant amount of time. Unless you need the camber adjustment that the JIC arms offer, go with stock. Good luck finding the jic arms as well.

I've got the majority of the stock shroud still intact, but ditched the aux fans - So far I haven't seen any significantly high temperatures running this way, so it seems OK. No extremely hot ambient temperatures around here either (30C max).

something like this? yes, the aux fans had to come out, but the added capacity of the radiator should take care of things (no issues so far). if not, a pusher fan will have to fit the bill.

It was extremely easy to run it between the radiator and AC compressor....and no cutting was required. Here is a pic of my set-up with a koyo radiator and 2.75" piping.

motherfucking word to the entire post. couldn't have said it better myself.

235/45/17 and 275/40/17 is the only combination on those wheels (still might be sketchy in front with a +22), but I'm sure the OP already knows, and has chosen to ignore that fact. either way, the results should be good for a laugh. that, and the speeding tickets from the increased tire...

keep that cone on his head as long as you can and he'll be good to go in no time. My in-laws lab (our lab's mom) had a similar issue and she managed to get at the stitches...that wasn't pretty.

I'm using the tanabe springs. They're not as stiff as the eibachs - at times I wish they were a bit stiffer but overall I'm reasonably happy with them. I can't comment on the drop since my shocks have height-adjustable perches.

to add to my last post, if you de-pin the injector clips, you only end up cutting off ~1/4" of wire with the terminal. Strip the wire 1/4" and crimp on the new terminal. The loss of wire is virtually nothing. If you're planning on keeping RC-style injectors on the car for the rest of its...

if this was the case, you likely had a sticky thermostat or an EXTREMELY buggered head gasket.

pins are different

yikes, what year is your car? 6 months ago I picked up my harness (89, 5sp,non-cali spec)for $425.

www.ballengermotorsports.com they sell the pins and connector bodies separate for the rc injectors. they are bosch ev1 clips iirc. head over to the electrical section and look for the crimper thread. I link a reasonably priced crimper which does a decent job at crimping the open barrel...

how the fuck did you get the engine into the backseat?

you might be out of luck putting the duct in front of the rear wheels (similar to the MK4). There is a lot of reinforcing sheet metal in that area (moreso for the targa body) and the chassis likely wouldn't take kindly to having it removed.

you mean the ironing, right??

buy wheels. drive to US, install on car, put stock wheels in back. manage to get new wheels dirty. claim purchase of stock wheels for $50. win.

I'm at work right now, so I don't have any good pictures with me. The wheels however are 5zigen fno1r-c, in 17x9 and 17x10, both +35. Tires are 235/45/17 F and 275/40/17 R adam