boy, have i got something funny for you....here's our jersey (i was the one who found the pylon logo...though I cannot take credit for the missing tooth)
the worst part was spitting my teeth out in the corner...at least I didn't drop to the ice like a bitch...just left a red trail to the bench.
damn, the T3 is starting to kick in...sure is nice having 2 ER docs on the team...
I present to you, the end result of tonight's hockey game. Puck to the mouth = goodbye teeth.
Damn am I grateful for 100% emergency dental coverage at work, though I'm not really looking forward to tomorrow morning.
backstep was visually there, didn't personally measure it though.
edit: just checked with my machine shop and their literature recommended a 0.020" step, which is consistent with what I've read for our flywheels.
the rust shouldn't advance too much in a couple of months. A temporary solution would be to use some sort of adhesive mat and stick it into the fender well as well as inside the car to cover up the holes (after cleaning of course). This will give you a cheap, temporary fix until you can do it...
You won't be able to weld through RTV. Look into metal bonding agents, typically used by body shops. (might be a good idea to go down and talk to some autobody guys...i believe the OEMs use bonding agent for quite a few things) They form a surprisingly strong bond between panels. If you want...
i should add that I'm using a brand new slave cylinder but not a brand new master (master has 30k km). Prior to tearing my car apart, the old stock replacement clutch behaved the same way when launching, though I just assumed I was overpowering it. I suppose this points toward the master...
This is not something that happened recently, and there is really nothing I can do about it right now since it is -20C and my car is sitting in an unheated shed likely encased in snow, but I was wondering if anybody had any insight...
I installed a new Spec 3+ clutch (on machined flywheel) in...
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