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Those first pics are the only GOOD swap ever done. They also only look really good because the pics are tiny. I'd have to hunt around, but there were more of that car and it ONLY looks good from that angle, the rest of the pics it looks terrible. Also, why the hellllllll did you get this car...

Nope. It's why the garrett wheels have to be bored out to fit the CT's shaft.

I remember this "upgrade" being kicked around years ago and some people used them. The main issue is the compressor housing is too small causing true compressor surge and causing issues (snapped shafts). As the wheels don't look THAT big on this particular one, it might be fine. Keep in mind...

By grenaded, how bad? Could be any number of things that let go (straps on PP, disk, etc). Have you tried pulling the inspection covers off to see what's up? My main worry is that you'd kill the built motor with a crazy PP which is the last thing I'd like to see...

Never really heard of em TBH, but this setup says it would hold the power you're talking about (unless you're talking at the rear wheels as you need to be buying a clutch for the torque at the crank)...

Use an RPS Max PP at your own risk. They're well known to cause crank walk... IIRC you could get a full face feramic to hold that, but with your lightweight flywheel, you risk welding the disk to the flywheel if it's slipped too much. Lightweight flywheel isn't going to be helping issues...

Eh, you're in there, you might as well do a complete rebuild and save yourself the hassle of doing it again later (and rebuild the LSD as well). Koyo is OEM for a hell of a lot of Japanese stuff. Timken used to be amazing but has dropped a bit in quality over the years.

It's not really an issue. Also, using the old bearing won't work... http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?430339-How-To-A-few-tricks-to-beef-up-the-rearend-carrier

DDM is crap and has always been crap. They're still using the same crap Chinese ballasts and the same crap harnesses. Also, you're wrong on the shields. It's literally impossible to run HID in a headlight designed for halogens without glare, period (as the standards and specs for both...

Yep, as Grim mentions, you can get to them through the fender opening (remove the liner of course)

No. Has nothing to do with the ballast. Bi-xenon means a single projector that is used for both normal low beams and high beams with a moving shield. PnP doesn't come into the play as they're garbage in the first place...

Keep the plastic endlinks in the back unless you're replacing or beefing up the tab they mount to on the suspension arm. Toyota went to the plastic endlinks because the tabs liked to rip off on the early cars that had metal links. Also, the best thing you can do for handling: Tires.

Overtightened timing belt tensioner bolt could be the culprit...

Electric motors pull a TON of amps on startup. Yes, they're rated at 5 amps...but that's running. It wouldn't be hard to build a setup that works: copy the factory setup for the auxiliary fans, put the sensor where it should be to function properly (look at a FWD Toyota with e-fans), and get...

Orly? http://wpdev.injectordynamics.com/articles/everything-you-never-wanted-to-know-about-alcohol/ Try at least reading up on it. In this community people usually blame an engine failure or BHG on the age or that the engine is crap, the rest of the world knows E85 REQUIRES a flexfuel sensor...

Driving and using the E85 isn't the issue, it's when it sits and has time to accumulate that water that it's an issue. There's many other issues with E85 though. Eats a lot of things, it's too "dry" and doesn't lubricate properly, E85 is not always 85% ethanol and it's not consistent enough to...

Winnar!

You don't have it, how do you know? ABS is great in 99% of situations. Anyone that says they're better than ABS is lying...

I'd use bolts on the side of the block personally (or use straps)

Codes 13 and 14 won't be from fuel cut. Also a larger turbo will flow more air at a lower PSI. That along with your SAFC settings is going to mean fuel cut. Another few things: - Pulling the screw all the way out of the AFM is adding a lot of air. Fuel pressure should be adjusted to match to...