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Those LED lights in the first link are actually pretty good, but they don't come close to the width of a good HID projector. Plus, not a fan of how they look :rofl: LED's theoretically won't burn out until the car is a rusted heap, so it's not a bad idea to run them. While HID's take longer...

The headlight buckets are fiberglass reinforced plastic, and not the least bit brittle :) As they're fiberGLASS reinforced, they SUCK to work with though...

Because of the huge connector on D2S, it's a very tight fit. Because the H1 basicly is a "kit" bulb and has wires instead so it seems to clear easier. I'll know more once this set is done if I can ever get it done. Either one, you may have to modify the plastic mounting bucket as there's...

Bit of a loaded question, so excuse the long explanations. Do you mean the round lens at the center of these lights when you talk about an "eye?" If so, technically yes. Here's the rub though. Putting HID bulbs into a halogen housing causes all sorts of crazy glare, alignment issues, and...

Mini H1 > Mini D2S in output. Also, while the projector itself is technically longer, the projector with bulb and connector is not, so they should fit with a bit of tweaking. I've made a set of D2S ones that I sold, and I'd do more if I had the time (I have one set about halfway done and it's...

It's just about impossible for the pressure to go UP with a hot idle... Also, I get into these arguments all the time at work about heavier oils being "better." For starters, there's pressure relief valves in the oil pump...

What year is it? I'm sure plugs are still available :)

Try finding a dealer without a crazy markup... Or buy from here: http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~gasket~turbine~outlet~elbow~17279-42010.html Yes that's the part number. Also, the stock gasket should have resealed just fine unless the flange on the downpipe was warped or something...

Put a jack under the LCA, remove the sway bar endlink, remove the nut on the lower ball joint, and then lower it down. Remove the shock bolt and then you'll be able to get that bolt out without things trying to bind or kill you.

Spark plug technology is interesting... For instance, copper is not the first "normal" plug that was used. Originally it was nickel alloy IIRC. These old plugs also had to be cleaned occasionally as they didn't self clean the way modern plugs do (which is why we went to copper in the first...

If you're going for that power, why would you be looking at brakes off of a car that makes much less than that? Honestly, if that's really your goal, you're going to be paying much more for better brakes. *cough*arz*cough*

There isn't a range, it's 1.1mm (.043 in.) for a GE and .8mm (.031 in.) for a GTE. Also, my bad for my original comment, I didn't read it as you being the mechanic/tuner, didn't mean to personally attack you.

Chattering is normal unless it's revved. I know you don't like it, but you have to pay to play... Either that or go multi-plate, but even those can chatter...

I can confirm the NB and on Miata came with one from the factory (well, it also depends on the trim package as well). I've been trying to figure out exactly why it's there as well, but having left it off, it is noticeable while driving. Our cars have a good thousand lbs on a Miata though, and...

Miata is a double wishbone front suspension as well....but they come with strut braces from the factory. :dunno:

Well, another 100K miles, true :rofl:

ftfy Coppers have less electrical resistance, but that's all that's going for them. They're shit for durability though and my time is worth more than the difference in price. Most modern cars come with iridiums to last well over 100K miles. Over the long term, they're actually CHEAPER.

Yet it's fact.

No, struts are simply structural, doesn't matter what arms it has (that distinction is where McPherson struts come from)

One could call them coilovers, but then people confuse them with aftermarket adjustable coilovers :)