Anyone ever use a clutchnet disk?

[MarkIII4Me]

http://clutchnet.com/index.php?opti...=shop.browse&Itemid=140&limitstart=0&limit=25

There's too much stop and go driving where I live, so I want to remove my Spec Stage 3 6 puck clutch and drop in an RPS Max PP with a full face clutch disk. Need it to hold 500 ft/lbs of torque and be easy to slip.

Found clutchnet's webpage and saw that they offer several full face disk options that are fully sprung. Any ideas how the fiber-carbon or kevlar disks will work for my needs?

 

[Poodles]

Use an RPS Max PP at your own risk. They're well known to cause crank walk...

IIRC you could get a full face feramic to hold that, but with your lightweight flywheel, you risk welding the disk to the flywheel if it's slipped too much. Lightweight flywheel isn't going to be helping issues either for drivability. After that, you're looking at a multidisk setup or a built auto...

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Thanks poodles, but I'm aware of all the things you've stated. I'm just wondering if anyone had experience with these clutchnet disks.

 

[Poodles]

Never really heard of em TBH, but this setup says it would hold the power you're talking about (unless you're talking at the rear wheels as you need to be buying a clutch for the torque at the crank) http://clutchnet.com/index.php?page...gory_id=4029&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=140

The real issue is they don't really talk much about the disks and what they might hold. Might be best to ask questions and see if they stand behind their product (so if it does slip, will they refund you, etc)

Seriously, just say no to RPS lol

 

[MarkIII4Me]

I'm pushing around 430ft/lb of torque at the wheels, so that clutch setup may be pushing it. Surprisingly, my old Spec Stage 3 clutch has held the power just fine for a while, but I grenaded something in there a couple of months ago doing a burnout and have to drop the trans. If the clutch is in pieces I need a replacement on standby. I'd go Spec again, but my current tune is on the low-side of my engine's capabilities. I want a clutch good for at least another 100ft/lb of torque at the wheels. Not trying to put too much into it so a multi-disk ssetup is out at the moment.

 

[Poodles]

By grenaded, how bad? Could be any number of things that let go (straps on PP, disk, etc). Have you tried pulling the inspection covers off to see what's up?

My main worry is that you'd kill the built motor with a crazy PP which is the last thing I'd like to see...

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Motor sounds fine. But once it's running the trans is locked out of all gears. With engine off the trans goes into each gear fine. When releasing the clutch pedal while I'm in gear there is a lot of chatter. Can't see much through inspection covers. Had a friend look in while the car was in the air and running in first and he said he could see the throwout bearing shaking. There's also trans fluid leaking from the input shaft seal. So I may have ripped out the shaft. Won't know until I get the time to drop the trans.

 

[supraguy@aol]

To answer your question- yes I've used a Clutchnet disc, and I would recommend them.
It was a 6-puck, and lasted a good long time. There was a small amount of chatter(which is common for 6-puck's), but much better than the
p.o.s. stage 2 generic thing that I got off Ebay later on. I had talked to them on the phone, and they seemed to know what they were talking about,
because they didn't just recommend that I buy their full setup and spend all my money. They asked what my plans were for the car, and what mods had been done.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Thanks supraguy. I'll probably shoot them a call next week and see which of their full face disks will meet my needs.