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That's not just them, everyone recommends doing that as it's a wear item because of the springs :) Most of the 2J guys get rid of it (this also leads to the clashing sound in the tranny at idle that most people raise the idle to get around)

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?96555-Dashpot-mod-to-solve-engine-stalling-when-venting-BOV-to-atmosphere&highlight=dashpot Why would someone go through all this trouble if there wasn't an issue to begin with? Most of us just learned to drive around the quirk, not actually fix...

You're missing the point...

The fuel is delivered directly to the cylinders meaning it is instantly turned off or on. It MIGHT work if we had sequential injection (we don't), but the general point is that yes you're flooding it and the more air (i.e. boost) you were just sucking into the motor, the more fuel is being...

Your theory would only be correct if our engine was direct injected. It's not.

Like I said, depends on the situation. On a bone stock car, it's probably fine. On a car with turbo back exhaust pushing right below fuel cut and it hits full boost at 3K RPM, it's going to be an issue...

He's well beyond the point where it should release forward is what I mean... I'd suspect the pivot or the spring(s)

Depends a hell of a lot on the situation, but yes, it can and will stall. It will also cause muffler explosions (what some people would call a backfire, but this is wrong as a backfire is up through the intake) and overall crappy running and driving. It may also damage the cat. Can you adjust...

Yep yep, good clutch, but grabby (as all puck clutches are)

I played it a while during beta. I found it too grindy to get anything (this is a typical failing of a F2P game). It's also not as good as the Microsoft sanctioned mod for crisis which I played a hell of a lot of (MechWarrior Living Legends).

Even without a master connected, the pedal should return. You have an issue in the pedal assembly...

This is entirely untrue...

Here's a start: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=28 Codes are a start...

So you got an exhaust to go faster. So you're going to add weight to quiet it down which will slow you down... This is all easily fixed with a proper exhaust setup, but what do I know... FYI: I don't care if you coat every square inch of the interior metal on the car with dynamat, IT'S STILL...

While it can be done, it's not really worth it (and some would say unsafe). If you run multipiece wheels it's a piece of cake...

It's called MKIV wheels ;)

First off, if you're running that much stuff, you have other issues. I can think of quite a few people running a TON of piggybacks and not having any issues at all with the factory alternator. Also, you're 100% wrong on aftermarket e-fans. Not better cooling, not more efficient, and they are...

If it's producing more power, where is it coming from? Think about it... This is why e-fans "freeing up horsepower" is a crock. Nothing is free.

Yep, I have the parts to make a kit with those 90mm units too. Too much fabrication for my tastes though as my OCD wouldn't allow me to just make a mount for the units, but it would need a fitted bezel as well. Also, yes, the cutoff is fuzzy because of the glass. Plastic cover is more...

D2S fits just fine if you space the housing away from the bucket. There's plenty of room to clear. I THINK the H1 will fit fine without spacing, but I've not gotten the projectors mounted in the housings yet, so can't be sure as of yet. Don't take my word on it yet! They're not a normal...