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Notice the last picture I posted that says the drive the gear on with a hammer and SST? Apparently not...

Yep, I doubt it's really the FPR leaking the pressure, it's more likely the fuel pump (or injectors) One could always install a check valve, but it's really not needed as the system primes quickly. Maybe if you're running a tiny battery...

Really? Now please do shut up. If they're loose, they beat the hell out of the keyways and damage the crank.

Big issue is that it's not a super desirable color combo, and the seats look a bit faded. Doesn't help the market for cars is crap these days... 1JZ is also a no-go for many people.

No no no NO It's a press fit and was a press fit from the factory. There's a reason both pulleys have tapped holes in them for mounting a puller just like the TSRM shows. If they were NOT a press fit, they could work loose and bad things would happen.

Little late to the party, but for future reference: - If the guide comes off, you NEED a new pulley. Get a new one from the dealer (cost may have gone up, but I paid around $25) as the design is revised and the guide is staked on much more securely. - Use the proper puller. - It's supposed to...

Easiest way? The main bearing plate (where the front and rear of the case come together) is aluminum on the W58 and iron/steel on the R154. It's gonna be darker/rusted and a magnet would quickly tell them apart. This is really useful if the tranny is still in the car.

Remove the connector from the switch. Bridge the contacts with a paperclip or the like. Check if the lights are on. If they're on, go buy a brake light switch.

240Z's are known for stress cracking the frame if stiff suspension is installed. You'd have to reinforce it. Not to mention the general age of the car means it would likely be in worse condition and need more work. Rotaries sound like crap NA and are dogs as well. Honestly, you're better off...

1) Backpressure doesn't exist 2) It depends entirely on the muffler design in how loud it will be.

Starter relay isn't an upgrade ;) Anyway, I assume you've checked the teeth on the starter gear? If they're flattened it's going to have a hard time meshing with the flywheel. Other than that it could be the solenoid is either worn out or the plunger is sticking.

Off the top of my head, it's an injector plug (probably the cold start injector if one of those) or it's supposed to go to one of the VSV's under the intake manifold.

Check the little hose that connects to the underside of the accordion pipe. Would be my first guess as it's usually missed.

How are you going to handle PCV?

Loosen the master from the booster and pull it away a bit and check for wetness. There's a gasket there, so when the master goes out, it doesn't visibly leak...

Eh, glass is fine, but you're gonna lose the color band (even plastic will do this to some extent, especially if you put something like lamin-x on them to stop them from hazing...)

Dealer option (much like the door guards of a similar design)

Bumping a 6 year old thread with wrong info? Also just so you know you're wrong

Nope, not even diesels run 50 weight oils anymore! They have to go out of their way to buy it as we've gotten rid of nearly all of it. It's also not "brand" new, but a newer one. I've had to educate a ton of these clowns that think a heavier weight oil will stop leaks or that if it's got high...

Engine management? Turbo? Downpipe? Intercooler and piping? Fuel pump? Internals? Clutch? There's more but that's the big stuff off the top of my head...