Depends a lot on what the engine was designed for :) Wear/building the engine/higher power/track usage = you need to revaluate what you'll be using.
Hydrostatic bearings aren't supposed to wear at all, but people don't always take care of their engines leading to wear.
Can't tell you how many...
I'll drop in to add a bit to this game.
- Guys really need to look at how a hydrostatic bearing functions.
- The oil pump is a gear pump... Viscosity does come into play here...
- Not going to blow any seals on a 7M with high pressures.
- IJ has more experience than you :rofl:
Funny...
Yep, worth doing on any build.
Also worth going to thermostat controlled oil cooler as well (stock is pressure based bleed to the cooler and back to the pan)
Why? Cable actuated caliper is more complicated. Hydraulic can't be used as a true parking brake (it's used for drifting, that's all).
Wilwood parking brake caliper is, well, garbage. They're notorious for being cheap and rattling.
No point in doing this unless you're going with a...
Bingo. Only issue with it is that it leaves the dash shiny, I don't like glare from the dash but unless it's suede it's gonna do it...
If you have to use something you buy at a local store that doesn't have 303, use a leather conditioner as it contains a UV protectant and isn't just silicone...
Where is the AEM grounded? Not a fan of relocated batteries for a number of reasons, but this is one of them. Stock, the battery is grounded directly to the block, with your current setup it's going through the entire chassis (rust and all).
Not normal (we went to alternators from...
From what I remember, anti-surge housings are used to combat true compressor surge (has NOTHING to do with when you let off the throttle, it's actually far more damaging and dangerous). Doesn't replace a BPV/BOV.
Freezing, 2am, take your pick :p
Yeah, I'll try to get the measurements. I don't think it will work though regardless as the main mounts are at the ends and the MKII hatch has a lot more metal around the outside of the glass on the hatch. You'd essentially have to mount it entirely to the...
Yep, later one is more resistant to cracking. Also, mine isn't cracked (then again, most people rip off all the supports for the damn thing and then wonder why the turbo keeps coming loose...)
Width isn't as important as real drag tires. If money is no object, the bigger the better (and that goes for bigger sidewalls as well). Most of the people I know ran old and blown stock springs and shocks in the rear :rofl: Cheap but effective...
Start here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?14479-Your-guide-to-drag-strip-success-w-pics.
Keep in mind an alignment and setup for a drag car is the opposite of a setup for doing anything else with the car. You have to be serious about one or the other.
Lowered = bumpy, period. You have less travel, so you need higher spring rates and stiffer dampening to stop from bottoming out. If you try to be soft, you'll bottom out making it even worse...
Easy to check, torsen acts like an open diff when unloaded (i.e., both rear wheels off the ground, if you spin one, the other side will spin opposite).
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