power from a NA 7m

[SupraMaster]

The shock of nitro will shock your entire drive train. It's not limited to anything in particular.

If it was progressive, like a turbo, it wouldn't be nearly as bad. But, due to the fact that it is an instant shock to the system, you're gonna want to make sure everything can handle the stress.

 

[RazoE]

but aren't there nitrous controllers that limit the ammount of nitrous, and when it engages/disengages...?

 

[Quin]

Yes. Real life systems don't use bright red buttons

 

[SupraMaster]

but aren't there nitrous controllers that limit the ammount of nitrous, and when it engages/disengages...?

I believe they call it "staging". Hence, why there are different nitro setups. It would be far better than running an un-staged setup, but you still want to make sure your engine and drive train can handle the added, and repeated, stress of such force.

 

[OneJoeZee]

edit: nvm.

People with nice modded clean NAs ftw!

 

[sean210]

158hp@5250
172tq@4650
And I was told that the dyno we were on was set different or something but they said If I was on a dynojet I would have made 15% more.
So that would be:
182hp@5250
198tq@4650.

I will have a picture of the sheet late tonight.

 

[SupraMaster]

This is pretty much the ultimate top end upgrade for any car.

Thank you, Nick M, for posting the link.

 

[Pantaloon007]

This is pretty much the ultimate top end upgrade for any car.

Thank you, Nick M, for posting the link.

That is some crazy shit, Ive never heard of such a valvetrain- makes you wonder why thats not in any production vehicles

 

[Quin]

The dyno Sean used was weird, we had a 1J that supposedly JUST put down well over 400 barely do 300.

We had another NA dyno that was running on a fresh rebuild put down about the same power as Sean.

Sean if you did a rebuild you'd probably be around 200rwhp. Btw, your car sounds good.

 

[CRE]

The only thing I can say is that I'm beating cars I shouldn't be able to or at least keeping up with them with no problems at all... of course under 60MPH they all would probably kick my rear.

 

[labrat469]

Before you start building your motor first decide on what type of motor you want. Daily driver, Street racer, or WOT monster. Pick one and only one. With a DD forget about real power because the real goal is reliability and gas economy. With a Street racer you will give up some gas economy and some reliability in exchange for power. And with a WOT monster you can pretty much forget about getting it on the street. Stop and go traffic will own you and over heating in traffic will be the norm. Oh yea and enjoy the single digit MPG you will be getting with gas that's about +10 USD a gallon. Most owners opt for the Street racer motor.

Now that you have chosen the type of motor you want how much money do you have to spend. Power costs money. Here you also have three choices. Cheap, reliable, or fast. Pick one and only one.

The first and best mod for any old motor is a complete rebuild because you really don't know what the previous owner has done to the motor. Why spend a lot of money for mods on a tired motor. Have the shop go over the motor with a fine tooth comb. The machine shop is where the real magic happens.:evil2: People believe what they see. If your motor looks stock they are going to believe it's stock.... until you start the motor. While the motor is in the shop you can go ahead and get the extra goodies done to it.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

The only thing I can say is that I'm beating cars I shouldn't be able to or at least keeping up with them with no problems at all... of course under 60MPH they all would probably kick my rear.

Expert tuning So it looks like a means to tune even a stock GE is a big plus. Your's is stock except the Maft-Pro SD right?

 

[sean210]

The dyno Sean used was weird, we had a 1J that supposedly JUST put down well over 400 barely do 300.

We had another NA dyno that was running on a fresh rebuild put down about the same power as Sean.

Sean if you did a rebuild you'd probably be around 200rwhp. Btw, your car sounds good.

Thank you.
yea I was surprised to see the numbers.
THen when someone said that the dyno was weird and it
should have been 15% more I got even more happy.

 

[SupraMaster]

The only thing I can say is that I'm beating cars I shouldn't be able to or at least keeping up with them with no problems at all... of course under 60MPH they all would probably kick my rear.

Yeah, it's fun. I do it all the time, and it completely blows them away. Then they ask if it's turbo...

 

[suprarx7nut]

The only thing I can say is that I'm beating cars I shouldn't be able to or at least keeping up with them with no problems at all... of course under 60MPH they all would probably kick my rear.

You should really get it dyno'd.

That car weighs as much as my dad's dodge truck and it still pulls like nothing else I've ridden in.

I'm very curious to see exactly how much power you're putting down with the MAFTPro well tuned.

 

[sean210]

How hard is it to go to a maft-pro from stock?
Dont you lose the MAF completely?

 

[Quin]

You can, if you get the speed density setup.

 

[sean210]

Ok I'm not to knowledgeable about all the engine manegment systems
and most of the electrical aspects of the 7m.
I'm gonna need some advice about where to get them and which ones to
get.

 

[CRE]

The N/A has more issues with accepting piggy backs than the GTE. I'm working on a small add-on for AJ and my MAFT Pro setups to pre-power the MAFT Pro and LC-1 in order to, hopefully, finally eliminate these peculiarities.

The N/A is a poor platform for an off the line car IMHO. But with a MAF or a S/D conversion, a decent exhaust, a good tune and a well running engine it really holds its own once you're moving. I'm not going to get into what I've beat and so on... but I still find myself in disbelief on many occasions.

My car's running 17.5º BTDC, slightly higher compression from a light head shave when i did the HG (small enough that it's probably not worth mentioning), one piece DS, and an EXCELLENT tune .

I'm currently running on a 4.30 LSD but I really didn't notice much difference between that and the 3.93 I was previously running... a SLIGHT loss in mileage.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

The N/A has more issues with accepting piggy backs than the GTE. I'm working on a small add-on for AJ and my MAFT Pro setups to pre-power the MAFT Pro and LC-1 in order to, hopefully, finally eliminate these peculiarities.

The N/A is a poor platform for an off the line car IMHO. But with a MAF or a S/D conversion, a decent exhaust, a good tune and a well running engine it really holds its own once you're moving. I'm not going to get into what I've beat and so on... but I still find myself in disbelief on many occasions.

My car's running 17.5º BTDC, slightly higher compression from a light head shave when i did the HG (small enough that it's probably not worth mentioning), one piece DS, and an EXCELLENT tune .

I'm currently running on a 4.30 LSD but I really didn't notice much difference between that and the 3.93 I was previously running... a SLIGHT loss in mileage.

17.5 deg BTDC? Is that your base timing with the jumper wire?

Have to disagree with you a little with the NA not being too good off the line. I've tried it comming off at 4k and it did come off pretty well. I have Proxies 245's in the rear. But I probably have a little more torque You're just going to have to stop over and we'll run'em.:icon_bigg