OK now that i'm putting it back together FINALLY...

[trydrew]

Wow. lol

Yeah man, my problem isnt not tightening bolts down but rather tightening one all the way before the rest are even in. So yeah, but the only hose I forgot to hook up in order was the coolant throttle body hose. Its on the very bottom on the turbo, so its a pain. But yeah, Im gonna recheck all the bolts when I do the retorque.

 

[Figit090]

and thats only just recently. i have several hudred of the whole process. i'm going to make a thread on the details probably...


OK here are some pics. dusty car is before washing it with dish soap. some pics will show the dust/clean contrast. it's crazy! also a few of it running...posing...and maybe if i feel like it...some of the assembly/clean parts pics. DIE 56k!! oh and sorry i have a crap camera!

EDIT EDIT EDIT

i had to remove pictures temporarily. maybe permanantly unless someone wants to see them....lol... let me know!


END OF EDIT





SHE'S ALIVE!!!

so what do you all think? it hink those are some of the best shots of my car i've seen in a while!


if anybody wants specific pictures or would like to see more of anything let me know...i have many pictures since the digi cam allows the freedom to take many...many shots...lol. its eaiser to get carried away when you're not paying for the pics.

 

[mickyg]

Fig, you mentioned the block drain needing sealant - I'm not aware of why this would be the case. It's very similar to the radiator drain cock (except metal) and I can't imagine it needing anything except torque to get it closed again.

Just as reassurance, I used the one on the back of my block and it hasn't so much as become moist in almost 2 years since!

 

[Figit090]

tsrm says use sealant. should i try and drain the block for the final fill? i'd have to find the thing too...

dipstick side?

 

[mickyg]

You can see it on the left in this pic (silver looking thing sticking out of the block):

I have no idea why that won't show the pic instead of the link...

As for what the TSRM says, honestly I didn't know that! I would imagine using a small amount of silicone wouldn't hurt but don't quite understand why it'd be necessary. Bear in mind, my experience with the drain was on a 5M but it's the same location, same water passages, etc...

 

[Figit090]

thanks. so do u think it would be a good idea to drain the block before a fill as well?

what about distilled water? necesary? my antifreese doenst mention it but the TSRM does...

 

[johnathan1]

I would totally flush the cooling system out with distilled water (your gonna need several gallons) until the waer coming out runs totally clear. Then go with the Toyota red coolant. Hose water has minerals in it that leave deposits in your cooling system, and can lead to rust/corrosion. That green coolant is also not the best idea, as the 7M has an aluminum head...And you've come so far...why take a chance...ya know what I mean?

 

[Figit090]

i already bought some of the green stuf...and the dealer is 15 miles away. it says its safe for aluminum... and i had green in it to begin with.

i dont know about flushing with distilled. i will fill with it but i've been flushing with plain hose water...did it about 4 times so far...not counting before the teardown.

i probably wont get the red stuff...i saw a bottle when i was at the dealer but i dont want to drive there. it will cost 3-5 dollars to do so and i already have some prestone stuff.

 

[IJ.]

Fig: I wouldn't use the green coolant again.

 

[Figit090]

it's really that bad??? what can it do? will the deposits clog the system or what? how about the water? do i need to flush with distilled or can i just drain both the block and radiator and fill with red coolant and distilled?

now i have to go get some .

 

[IJ.]

Well my brand new block did about 9000 km's/5500 miles and looked like it had done 10 x that it was that badly erroded using the Green

 

[trydrew]

What about with some Water Wetter?

 

[Figit090]

what brand? maybe you used a certain kind that isnt as good. tsrm says the kind i have is correct...has a bit of another kind in it but... it was running the green and i think it was fine. this way i can see rust in the coolant no problem.

was your block ERODED or CORODED? if you didn't mis-type...did it actually truly EAT the block? it doesnt make sence, millions of people use green coolant.

I have Shellzone glycol/diethylene glycol based coolant concentrate and it says it's formulated for "stringent corrosion protection"

 

[IJ.]

Drew: WW doesn't hurt.

Fig: It was errroded and MUCH more than I'd expect on a brand new head and block!

I switched over to Toyota Red last build so will see how it looks sometime in the future.

 

[Figit090]

so it's actually ate the metal from your block. wow. how did you find that out?

edit--------can you tell me what's in the toyota red?

also...why am i finding different bottles for different cars when i search online for toyota red? they don't formulate it differently for each car do they? some are even cheaper than others.

 

[IJ.]

Took the head off and looked !

Errosion looks a little different to corrosion and I suspect it's the chemical reaction between the head/block/coolant that caused it

 

[Figit090]

what coolant were you using? i really really want to just do this and get it done

mine says its safe for all engine and cooling system parts including aluminum. and i have a copper radiator anyhow so...it shouldnt hurt that. i guess.

i didnt know you could take the head off w/out risking damage to the headgasket. unless its metal.

sry about your block. that is really odd.

 

[IJ.]

I had to pull the motor down after getting a BHG on the dyno at 30 psi....

I was using green safe for alloy heads coolant and after seeing the results I won't use it again.

 

[Figit090]

hmm. can u tell me whats in the red coolant? i cant find a site that lists ingrediants. if you can eaisily...dont worry about it or anything.

 

[IJ.]

I did a bunch of research after seeing the condition of my block as stupidly on my part I 'believed" Red and Green were chemically the same and these days it was only the colour that was different!

After a few hours searching and reading I found that yes there is a difference with most companys recommending Red for BiMetal motors.... DOH!

Sorry I didn't save any links.