OK now that i'm putting it back together FINALLY...

[Figit090]

::w00t::

Bought some nifty stuff today... probably try to get the studs helicoiled today...at least the broken ones. there are two studs i'm going to try just installing new toyota parts because the new studs are longer for some reason (i wonder? lol) and they havent moved yet soo....hopefully it will save some time. that end of the head felt fine under the wrench and i have the tools if i ever need to get back under there and fix something.

here's a pic of what i got today... i'll be using some other stuff too but this is what i didnt have.

I'll be posting my most recent pics later...after i get them uploaded.

its going a bit better now

 

[mickyg]

Very nice! I wish I had an air gun and associated tools - it'd make life a lot easier!

 

[trydrew]

Lol, I stripped three studs out today. :biglaugh:

This thread is great, haha.


Some of my other troubles include vacuum and sensory devices. Anybody got a good link for the vacuum line? I know I saw one that had all the lines pictured but i cant find it..

 

[Figit090]

ok here you go... awsome pic on cygnusx1 if anyone knows who this guy is PM me and tell me so i can thank him. lol.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291410/1708_2.html

 

[mickyg]

Yeah, he's pretty awesome! The stuff he's put together has helped the supra community in ways I'm sure he'll never fully appreciate.

If you get his details, post 'em up cause I'd like to know as well!

 

[3p141592654]

Mike Bringle is his name, he's a great guy.

 

[mickyg]

Does he visit here occasionally? I didn't see his number plate listed as a username so if he does, he must go by something else.

Nice name too!

 

[3p141592654]

No, but he's been on the supras.com mailing list for a long time.

 

[Figit090]

cool. thanks for the info on him. I wonder who took the time to scan every page of the manual...if thats how it works....yikes!!

QUESTION!: I removed my distributor assuming i could find the match marks and didnt pay attention to where the rotor was pointing much less exactly where the gear should be and I cant seem to find the "protrusion" or mark of any sort on the distributor's drive gear.

if someone could point me in the right direction or post a picture that would rock. i do believe i found the mark on the housing...a longish line machined into the metal... so i know where that is.


EDIT------ I just realised that the distributor in the TSRM looks to be a different design??? hmm.... the end of mine doesnt have that huge rotor...its a small rotor like a clock hand, not a big disk thing... and the housing is much deeper...

EDIT #2------ i looked at the 7mgTe's CPS and it has a driven gear with a drilled HOLE instead of a matchmark protrusion. My driven gear on my distributor has a hole like this. I'm assuming i should probably line that hole up. if someone could confirm this....it would be nice. lol

 

[Hobbes992]

I don't mean to veer this thread off topic but can the cps be swapped into the 7mge head in place of the distributor or are they basically two different heads. I would answer your question but I don't know the answer.

Also, about that gasket from the y-pipe to the intake, uh just to warn you make sure you seat that shit really well because ever since I removed it and put it back on I've had this un-findable vaccuum leak and I think that stupid gasket is to blame, or my idiocy. I'd put my money on the latter, but yeah it definitely looks re-usable. Mine was blue and somewhat thicker than usual plastic.

 

[mickyg]

Fig, I think you're right about the hole. However, you can always set everything to TDC, install the distributor and reinstall till you get the rotor pointing at no1 on the dissy cap (When it's fully installed). Bear in mind, this'll be at 0 degrees instead of where you'll set it when it's running. It'll probably take a few attempts but is well worth it. Oh, and remove the exhaust valve cover too to help you see where the gears are oriented while you're installing/removing the dissy. Let me know if any of that's unclear!

 

[Figit090]

Hobbes-
yours sounds aftermarket then...which might not be re-useable. dont know for sure. toyota's part # is 22271 and i see no dimond designation to replace it after removal in the TSRM or parts catalog schematic. soo...there u go.

mine is a nice-looking one with rubber seals along the edges and metal covering whatever is in between...some kind of composite or paper i think-dont remember. so it's like a 3-layer thing in a way... came un-stuck from itself on one corner but with the pressure from the intake i dont think it'll be a problem.

how do you find out you have a vac leak anyway? rough idle? ok...back on track. um....


mickyg- at first i didnt get it all but i read the tsrm on timing adjustment and now i know. do i need a tachometer to do this adjustment or just that light? more on that later its not ever assembled all the way yet.

UPDATE! Valves are fine... going on with assembly I practiced drilling into an aluminum head of a briggs and stratton engine and havent practiced tapping but i will AFTER i drill the holes.

I am thinking of this setup to brace the drill and improve accuracy:

-leave exaust manifold on and use exaust gasket to drill holes in a stick of maple (1-2in thick) with a drill press

-install stick on studs still in head

-thread old nuts on the studs, and rest the exaust manifold which is still attached to the exaust pipe on the nuts so it is in-line with the studs and use as a guide and to help make a stopping point to avoid over-drilling

- measure depts to drill and determine how thick the piece of wood shall be and how far to put the manifold away from the head. I have tried this and it seems to line up well (without the wood) and i can adjust how close the manifold is to the head via the nuts on the studs, since the pressure of the exaust pipe is pushing the manifold toward the block, the nuts hold it up and keep it from moving inward.

-once everything is situated double check for how true it is and start drilling.

I may leave out the wooden stick since the exaust manifold is a pretty good guide...one hole is way bigger than the bit but i have eyes....

what do you all think? pics in a minute.

 

[Figit090]

Here are pics of how i have it set up and a view from the drill's POV.

theres also a pic of the engine i practiced on:evil2:

oh and the engine as it sits....NOW.

read my previous post too!! its got important stuff. let me know what you think about my drilling idea. i think it looks pretty good...i could eyeball it but the manifold seems like it should help keep my eyeball error down...:biglaugh:

if anyone want a specific engine shot or more pics of something holler.

 

[mickyg]

That idea sounds fantastic - possibly a bit on the over-cautious side but that's NEVER a bad thing!

I couldn't tell from your pic on the BnS engine, but were those holes already there and you just widened them? If so, you'll know by feel if you've hit the bottom of the hole. Also, the old hole will keep the bit pretty centered anyway. After all, you're really only removing the threads from the hole. The drill bit will "find" it's way fairly easily.

I still think you have the right idea by using the manifold as a guide though and like I said, erring on the side of caution is probably the way to go!

Regarding the distributor, you can do everything I mentioned withought a timing light or even firing the engine up! Find the number one spark plug on the dissy cap, make a marking on the side of the distributor to mark its position (put it somewhere where you can still see it after you remove the cap). Then, install the distributor into the head but keep the cap off. Make sure your exhaust cam has its matchmark pointing at the timing mark on the rear timing cover. Check to see where the rotor is pointing on the distributor now. If it's pointing at the no1 mark you made, it's all good. If not, adjust and remember what position the hole in the gear is, in relation to the line in the distributor before you installed it.

Wow, that sounds confusing as anything - let me know if I can break that down a bit more!

 

[Figit090]

I think i understood it perfectly.

i was having a bit of issues yesterday and realised the cams weren't at TDC anymore....somehow i got a different position stuck in my head....maybe one to measure clearances....not sure.... but i think i got it fixed now. thanks for your help!

Today i'll be finishing little things and checking vac hoses, along with installing the intake plenum and throttle body... would have earlier but i had to decide what to torque the head down and those damn screws for the valve covers suck ass. so i'm going to buy some hex bolts at least for the ones in the back. I searched for a good set of ANYTHING buy screwdriver headed screws but... i only found about 5 at one hardware store and 4 at the other.... so i'd have to go to 3 seperate stores to sort it out SOON...i'll probably just get the 5 and do the back of each cover and swap screws at a later date.

I've decided that i'm going to go to 68ft/lbs unless i get an impulse to hit 70... i think maybe 70 will come after the 10 heat cycles. i'm re-torquing to 68 ft/lbs today and i should have it ready to start by this evening!

i'm not putting RTV on the valve covers...i'll wait until the cycles are done.

I'm putting in 5.5 quarts of oil...sound good? here is some stuff i bought for the tune up and BHG job....expensive!! i got 5 quarts of phillips cheapy oil and 5 quarts of valvoline 5w-30, obviously. cheap will be run during the heat cycles and drained afterward to rid the engine of moisture, debris that may have found their way in, and that assembly lube. i'll also change the filter once or twice....i bought 3.

 

[3p141592654]

I've done the helicoil with the head out of the car but no drill press. I think the safest way to go is to start with a drill that barely over size, and then work your way up to the required diameter for the helicoil. That way the threads keep everything square and guides the drill.

Also, practise doing a few helicoils on a piece of scrap. It takes a bit of finesse to get them started.

 

[Figit090]

ok i'll probably step up to the required bit... i'm using m10 x 1.25 kit.

I realised that the new toyota studs aren't really longer...just slightly different and the threads that go into the head really aren't that much more...maybe one or two extra threads. the whole stud is maybe 1mm longer than the old...lol.

 

[IJ.]

Bit of a tip if you're going to practice on scrap: Drill the hole right throgh and DON'T break the drive tab off when you're done this way you can screw the Coil right through and reuse it!

 

[Figit090]

good tip. thanks. will work perfect on the practice piece i have.

What do the rest of you think on head torque before heat cycles and after?

right now it's been sitting at 60ft/lbs for over two days. I wont go over 72, probably not even 70... i was thinking 68ft/lbs. just as a reminder...using toyota gaskets and re-used bolts. after i make this torque i can finish putting it together

 

[IJ.]

Biggest bitch with the coils is if they don't start straight!
(Not a problem with the bigger sizes but small ones are very flexible)

Do a retorque after the motor has been run and cycled a few times over a couple of days so it fully cools each time.