OK now that i'm putting it back together FINALLY...
- Thread starter Figit090
- Start date
Should be fine as long as you don't push it hard!
Once it's cycled back crack the bolts in order and retorque to 72 ft/lbs.
Once it's cycled back crack the bolts in order and retorque to 72 ft/lbs.
ok cool.
what exactly is pushing it hard? What should i do when heat cycling? (in terms of driving the car) i was thinking i'd just let it idle the first few times and the second time slowly cruise out of the garage and let it idle up to warm while i wash the car (very dusty!).
then maybe after the third time take her out for a slow cruise around the near neighborhoods.... if that is pushing it let me know because i wont if i shouldnt! the only thing i'd be a bit cautious about is there is a rather steep hill to get to the main road that will give the engine a bit of a load....i could always creep in 1st though.
I take it i should avoid heavy load at ANY RPM and avoid high RPM's altogether...stay under 3k probably?
it isnt crucial for these answers right now, i'm going outside. but thanks a lot!!
i have to go pick up those stupid valve cover bolts now. GRRRR.
what exactly is pushing it hard? What should i do when heat cycling? (in terms of driving the car) i was thinking i'd just let it idle the first few times and the second time slowly cruise out of the garage and let it idle up to warm while i wash the car (very dusty!).
then maybe after the third time take her out for a slow cruise around the near neighborhoods.... if that is pushing it let me know because i wont if i shouldnt! the only thing i'd be a bit cautious about is there is a rather steep hill to get to the main road that will give the engine a bit of a load....i could always creep in 1st though.
I take it i should avoid heavy load at ANY RPM and avoid high RPM's altogether...stay under 3k probably?
it isnt crucial for these answers right now, i'm going outside. but thanks a lot!!
i have to go pick up those stupid valve cover bolts now. GRRRR.
shaweet.
edit; i think it goes over...it would have to because i never disconnected and cables and the CC cable shouldnt go under. nevermind. sry
edit; i think it goes over...it would have to because i never disconnected and cables and the CC cable shouldnt go under. nevermind. sry
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oh yeah. oops. and my parents lived in melbourne once...
one of my life goals is to take trip there....maybe even live there. heh...that reminds me, i was looking at govt auctions on this one site and there was a truckload of kangaroo meat for sale! lol... when i think kangaroo i dont think "food". are they commonly hunted for meat there?
WOAH ok that was a bit off topic. sheesh
one of my life goals is to take trip there....maybe even live there. heh...that reminds me, i was looking at govt auctions on this one site and there was a truckload of kangaroo meat for sale! lol... when i think kangaroo i dont think "food". are they commonly hunted for meat there?
WOAH ok that was a bit off topic. sheesh
what's the torque for the exaust studs? TSRM says 29ft/lbs but i've heard 22 i think and i thought maybe its been changed since toyota made the tsrm
update...
I got it running! it fired up on the first try!! i didnt have anything missing! there was only one very discouraging thing...
the engine was chugging like it did before the teardown!!! i thought...well shoot i didnt work all of that time for this? no way! does god hate me? or maybe the ECU is REALLY confused? what now?
then i checked the plug wires and put #2 and #4 where they should have been. hehe... yeah they were switched. i put so much thought into how to arrange the spark plugs that i forgot to keep checking the numbers on the cap. (lol...yeah...*phew!!*)
so i've gone through 6 heat cycles since yesterday... i should finish them tomorrow and begin the re-torque crap. The car sounds pretty good...has a bit of vibration and i dont know what it is... please pray for me that it won't develop a rod knock. I took the oil cap off and looked in...oil seems clean, dipstick is likewise. i used almost 6 quarts of Phillips oil intended just to flush out the engine. and a new filter. i might change the filter tomorrow since i bought two Champion filters and one WIX so i can keep the oil filtered well. if anyone has recomendations on how long to leave this oil in before putting in the valvolene or how long until a filter change let me know. i'm guessin' here.
I'll finish heat cycling tomorrow and if i feel like it move onto the re-torque, BUT I'm going to need tips on this too. i'm not sure what i should take off...i want to take of as LITTLE as possible... i could remove the y-pipe but i dont think that has a reusable gasket... or i could just unbolt the plenum and do it just like before...
that plenum was fairly difficult to deal with but whatever. i'm bushed.
but yeah hope for me that i dont get any engine problems after this. i couldnt handle it. so far i think its ok...real test will be harder driving. i've kept it under 3k RPM this whole time.
i dont know what to do on the exaust now..what do you think of 22? i ask because IJ told me to go to 22....it seems fine...
...i have helicoils in the three rear studs..supposedly the worst of the threads.... the front threads survived stud removal so i think they are ok for 29...the rear must be... but if 22 is ok and won't leak i'd rather stick with it.
almost through the worries!!! hehe...its exciting. god i hope nothing goes wrong.
I got it running! it fired up on the first try!! i didnt have anything missing! there was only one very discouraging thing...
the engine was chugging like it did before the teardown!!! i thought...well shoot i didnt work all of that time for this? no way! does god hate me? or maybe the ECU is REALLY confused? what now?
then i checked the plug wires and put #2 and #4 where they should have been. hehe... yeah they were switched. i put so much thought into how to arrange the spark plugs that i forgot to keep checking the numbers on the cap. (lol...yeah...*phew!!*)
so i've gone through 6 heat cycles since yesterday... i should finish them tomorrow and begin the re-torque crap. The car sounds pretty good...has a bit of vibration and i dont know what it is... please pray for me that it won't develop a rod knock. I took the oil cap off and looked in...oil seems clean, dipstick is likewise. i used almost 6 quarts of Phillips oil intended just to flush out the engine. and a new filter. i might change the filter tomorrow since i bought two Champion filters and one WIX so i can keep the oil filtered well. if anyone has recomendations on how long to leave this oil in before putting in the valvolene or how long until a filter change let me know. i'm guessin' here.
I'll finish heat cycling tomorrow and if i feel like it move onto the re-torque, BUT I'm going to need tips on this too. i'm not sure what i should take off...i want to take of as LITTLE as possible... i could remove the y-pipe but i dont think that has a reusable gasket... or i could just unbolt the plenum and do it just like before...
that plenum was fairly difficult to deal with but whatever. i'm bushed.but yeah hope for me that i dont get any engine problems after this. i couldnt handle it. so far i think its ok...real test will be harder driving. i've kept it under 3k RPM this whole time.
i dont know what to do on the exaust now..what do you think of 22? i ask because IJ told me to go to 22....it seems fine...
...i have helicoils in the three rear studs..supposedly the worst of the threads.... the front threads survived stud removal so i think they are ok for 29...the rear must be... but if 22 is ok and won't leak i'd rather stick with it.
almost through the worries!!! hehe...its exciting. god i hope nothing goes wrong.
Your thread has helped me alot. Im in the same boat you are man, DIY'er with little hands on experience with going THIS far with our cars. Not to mention both are 86.5 with what appears to be same engine conditions. I dont have a BHG, mines valve issues (I pray, it was a ticking, consistant with RPMs was told stuck open valve, rod knock is almost not possible with the history of work on this thing, then again, its a supra)
ANyways, I think its awesome that theres someone else in my SAME exact boat, except Im all alone, no dad who knows shit about this stuff to help on the spot. I am getting ALOT of help from this place and others to find all the information I need. Im def gonna ask you about the helicoiling later I think, I might have to do it on my ex mani.
My heads almost off, just gotta take off a few more things and shes comin up. Im a little on a budget so I cant get everything I needed at once, including some tools.
Anyways, Im hoping your car works great man, Im so happy to see someone else as determined as I am to do this shit themselves with no hands on prior experience. I have 4 or 5 friends goin..uhhhh dude take it to a mechanic...
1. Im broke
2. Dont trust them
3. This shit helps me learn easier
4. This is FUN AS HELL!!!
Im 21 and still a kid....
ANyways, I think its awesome that theres someone else in my SAME exact boat, except Im all alone, no dad who knows shit about this stuff to help on the spot. I am getting ALOT of help from this place and others to find all the information I need. Im def gonna ask you about the helicoiling later I think, I might have to do it on my ex mani.
My heads almost off, just gotta take off a few more things and shes comin up. Im a little on a budget so I cant get everything I needed at once, including some tools.
Anyways, Im hoping your car works great man, Im so happy to see someone else as determined as I am to do this shit themselves with no hands on prior experience. I have 4 or 5 friends goin..uhhhh dude take it to a mechanic...
1. Im broke
2. Dont trust them
3. This shit helps me learn easier
4. This is FUN AS HELL!!!
Im 21 and still a kid....
lol Same, just as I've said before. Only difference is mines a turbo, so the retorque is just a few gasket-less bolts and clamps. :icon_bigg
I thought I was gonna beat you to get it running Figi, but i was dead wrong lol. Anyway, I'm glad to here it started right up. Did you have to adjust the timing much, if any?
Right now Ive got everything installed (should be updating my little BHG thread), except for the charcoal canister, afm, radiator pipe, and battery. Tomorrow looks to be the big day around here. :love: I cant wait but there is no doubt ill be checking and rechecking things beforehand.
This thread is +1 for DIYers!!
I thought I was gonna beat you to get it running Figi, but i was dead wrong lol. Anyway, I'm glad to here it started right up. Did you have to adjust the timing much, if any?
Right now Ive got everything installed (should be updating my little BHG thread), except for the charcoal canister, afm, radiator pipe, and battery. Tomorrow looks to be the big day around here. :love: I cant wait but there is no doubt ill be checking and rechecking things beforehand.
This thread is +1 for DIYers!!
Awesome work Figit!
You know, 2 and 4 seem to be a pretty common thing for people to get reversed. I'm going to have to remember that on my build!
I would probably not worry too much about the 22lbs for the ex bolts. For one thing, if Ian says it'll work, it'll work! And secondly, if they're not tight enough, you'll hear it!
You know, 2 and 4 seem to be a pretty common thing for people to get reversed. I'm going to have to remember that on my build!
I would probably not worry too much about the 22lbs for the ex bolts. For one thing, if Ian says it'll work, it'll work! And secondly, if they're not tight enough, you'll hear it!
Definitely an awesome thread! This was your first time doing this, and you didn't even have any oil or coolant leaks??? When i finished mine, it was leaking everywhere...ugh...then again, I'm turbo I wish I would have started my own thread like yours.
I wish I would have started my own thread like yours.Figit: I only said 22 as you're using the antiseize and this acts a lubricant so you use less torque to no risk pulling the old threads!
Keep an eye on em over the next week or so they may need to be snugged back down!
Well done on getting it running!
Keep an eye on em over the next week or so they may need to be snugged back down!
Well done on getting it running!
phoenix6 said:
I'm glad that my thread is helping you, I hope you dont have a BHG, if you can try and think on the positive side. I hear a funny noise that could be a rod knock...possibly. i dont know what they sound like in person so its tough. my engine makes all sorts of noises...but since i probably wont do anything about it if it were a rod knock...i choose to ignore it. if it does in fact develop rod knock then i'll address that issue as i see fit...IF it happens:biglaugh: its sometimes hard to think on the bright side but if you are inexperianced i think its eaiser to worry too much. take your time though and think things through. About your supe; shouldn't you be able to tell by just removing the valve covers if a valve is stuck? rotate the cams...watch the lifters... i dunno. haven't heard of that problem yet so....its new to me.
what kind of budget are you on if you dont mind me asking? i was definatly on one...but i think i still spent close to 600 dollars..i've been afraid to see my receipts for that answer:cry: :icon_mad:
thanks for the positive thoughts, and good luck with yours...those 4 reasons you gave are all to correct, and once you're done you'll be REALLY happy that you saved so much money...and those other reasons too.:naughty:
that first thing you said i think is about how to remove that stuff from the engine right? if so...then....dang. but oh well. i'd just remove the y-pipe but i am NOT breaking another damn gasket. they take soo long to properly scrape off its not funny. i didnt have any gasket removal spray either (if it even works..never used it...i use razor blades:evil2: ) I haven't checked your build thread yet but if you read this before you go out... check all your recently and even your old added parts to check for loose bolts. i have the bad habit of installing something and forgetting to snug the bolts so i must do this. it helps though and you will see stuff you forgot. also check your vaccuum hose routing. its easy with this sheet from cygnus. if you need any help on were to rout something just holler. i think i have everything in the correct spots and its still fresh in my mind. it will be glued there after today :aigo: . only thing i had troublt routing were the throttle cables (confused myself...its really not hard) and then where to feed the throttle body coolant line on the firewall side of the throttle body... i didnt have enough slack going through the plenum and had to pull it back down through, past the fuel pipe and other CRAP and then up again through the manifold... BLAH! thanks for the props on the thread BTW! oh and you're almost there too...good job.trydrew said:
i almost forgot. i haven't touched my timing. it's halfway between 10 and 15 once warm. it took me about 30 minutes of troubleshooting to pick the perfect drive gear tooth to stick the distributor on, along with realising the cam wasn't at TDC. so after all that it proved beneficial.
thanks man! yeah 2 and 4 seem like they are pretty easy to mess up...heck...i did it so take it from me...lol.:icon_bigg From now on any further engine problems will first come with a dizzy check... thanks for eaising my worry-pain on the exaust bolts. I'm going to keep my eyes and ears on that thing for any problems. at least the worst 3 are already dealt with eh? I had strong faith in what IJ said, it's why i PM'd him (quickest answer and i figured he was on...i needed the info quick!) but this is all pretty much an opinion thing for me, and multiple opinions never hurts. i truly asked the thread because i didnt know who would reply first..and forgot to delete my question. but it didnt matter anyway because it can be hard to determine the vadility of statements without prior knowledge about who the tips are coming from.:wiggle: but i'm getting a better feel for it and by the looks of things, here and other threads...i dont think i'm getting any useless information, and definatly not from IJ:icon_razz . i guess it all depends on personall preference and style when it comes down to it. but opinions and pointers can help a LOT even if you dont follow them to the letter, they will still help get you through it.mickyg said:
johnathan1 said:
Yes prior to doing this job i have only helped in bleeding brakes (i pushed down the pedal!!) oil checks and changes, and tire inflation:biglaugh: . I have messed around with stereos and i've dissasembled my rear interior in the search for leaks but other than that...i'm a newbie to it. I thought about auto but around here the kids that take it worry me and i like cars so much i knew i could teach myself..along with pointers and on-site help (thanks Dad:icon_razz ) to help keep my stressful worries a minimum. and no, i have seen no leaks as of yet, i'm through with 6 heat cycles, some idle and some driven. 4 more today while it's nice and cold so i can move on and go have some fun!! thanks for the positive comments on my thread, i'm so glad it's helping others, its great to know i'm not the only one doing this.....
thanks man, that makes me feel even BETTER! i was getting a little worried because i was debating in my head; "risk stripping MORE studs and setback another day helicoiling or leave it and risk an exaust leak on my nice new gasket?" then i saw the thread and everybody's replies and ever time i checked back there was another one...i just kept getting happier. lol. Now i dont have to worry because i used the anti-seize and gutting oil to lube the nuts...yes...cutting oil. worked like a charm whent he nut was almost completely backed down...just squirt some in with a pipette and keep going! (yeah..the pipette was great for getting in there and the bottle was ass-backward...i got oil ALL OVER the manifold when i tried to aim and squirt...the nozzle isn't worth crap)IJ said:
now for the updates...
I've flushed my coolant system 3 times and will be draining it today just incase i go to far when i break loose the head bolts...cant be too careful.. i also dont have antifreeze so i have to drain it anyway. every time the water has come out brown with rust that was in the block... i didnt know there was a coolant drain cock in the block! hah..that rhymes.:momaru: but i dont want to go buy seal for the block cock so i'm just flusing and leaving the hose water in there to mix with my antifreeze. hose water is ok right? i can add the bottled stuff instead of hose water but there's no effective way of emptying the block aside from the drain thing and i dont want to do that.
i also got her washed, and for those out there that dont already know, use some good fender covers. every once and a while mine moved while i was working and i have way to many chips from working. two big ones because the damn halogen light stand came apart when i lifted it up and i was too suprised and weak to hold it from toppling over and hitting my hood!:icon_evil :icon_evil so watch out for that crap. i had touchup to do anyway but i could have gone without another 8 spots to fix...especially up front.
i cant think of anything else right now... who wants to see some pics? i have pics of EVERYTHING...i'm not kidding. from the start i've been taking pics...and if i sell the car someday it will help grately in the vadility of my repairs if some person that uses a mechanic gets worried...i can show that i took my time and did a through job...at least as good as i could without exploding.
but here are some basic pictures, sorry i dont have a video...i can make one probably if i can transfer VHS to digital with a program...i dont have the program yet... so just pics. i will edit in a minute since this is so dang long of a post!!
i have 336 photos uploading of JUST after i finished so...i have to wait for the upload and then select the few good for posting.