OK now that i'm putting it back together FINALLY...

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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no problem. i guess i'll price some coolant from toyota. its just a PITA to get there...

i had green in it though so i figure its probably had the stuff its whole life...damage is probably already done.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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You can get either premixed or concentrate from Toyota I'm lazy so went premixed as the water quality here isn't that great and I couldn't be bothered buying distilled water and mixing! ;)

You can buy Red from auto parts stores and I suspect it would be much cheaper than Toyota!
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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really...hmm...i'll have to call around.

so there is no other way to tell apart besides the color?? this is crazy.

dang. well if i can get some in town i might just do that. thanks man.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Well the Green says safe for aluminium heads on the container but when you search the web it says that the Red is for Bimetal......

Just going on personal experience here and I'm sure there are millions of Bi motors with Green in em.
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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ok i JUST like 5 min ago got down to the head bolts for the re-torque.

68 or 70ft/lbs? there's no risk of crushing the head gasket is there? damaging it i mean?

if there aren't any risks to 70ft/lbs i'm probably going to go to that.
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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ok, i just cracked them in reverse order and went at it to 60.

i will now go out and hit 70, thanks for somehow always being here when i need help!! lol...
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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what parts specifically? how many supras have you had, and how many do you have? you seem to know so much....HOW? lol.

OK, i just finished the 60-70ft/lbs transition and thankfully i didnt have to turn the bolts much to active this. i had to switch from pulling to pushing the wrench arm because my left hand hurt so bad! now for a serious break, then assemble and drive around town.

one more thing...am i totally done on the re-torquing? (dont mention the 500 miles..i'll worry when i get there) i'm just wondering about right now....like...do i have to wait a fwe hours and go break and torque again or can i just leave it now that it's at 70 and drive it again?
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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Waiting for some custom Axles so I finish my 9" Diff install.

1 only Supra owned it since 1997 but have been around cars all my life.

You're done button it back up and you're good to go and enjoy it :)
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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i can punch full throttle too? i dont have to worry at all? hehe...

WAHOOO!!!!!! no more BHG!!::bhg::



:wiggle: :wiggle: :wiggle: :beer: :beer: :runaway: :runaway:


time to go have fun!:wavey:
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Didn't do any bottom end work?

Make sure the cooling system is well bled and stable then yeah no reason why not! (they can take a few days to bleed all of the air pockets out and can be helped along parking nose up on a steep driveway heater on hot idling and keep topping it up)
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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no i didn't. i hope to got i dont have a rod-knock. i wont be doing any crazy running...no full throttle stuff really. just spirited driving... during heat cycles i was taking it easy so i cant tell if noises i hear are under a load or just...engine noises.

i turned the crank back and forth and no weird noises or anything. and i cant move it in and out so i dont think i have axial play...if that can show rod knock.

i'll do the bleeding and try my best to get that done.

one thing i have to do still is with the oil.

i bought two bosh filters and one wix, along with 10 quarts of oil, 5 cheap and 5 of better valvoline, both 5w-30.

I used the new cheap oil and one bosh filter through my 10 heat cycles. i have the 5 new valvoline quarts and two filters sitting out there, one cheap one expensive.

what would you do in terms of changing filters and changing oil at this point? i ask because i noticed moisture in the oil before the teardown, and when i remove the oil cap after running i see a small amount of steam venting.

i was thinking change out the oil filter now, wait for maybe 5 more runs and then change the oil while it's still warm (without burning my hands) to flush out all the crap. upon inspection the valvetrain looks like it has clean oil, whatever clumpies were in the hoses are either drained with the last change or diluted. i'll check back after assembly :D
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Filters are very cheap!

Swap in another run it for awhile then at 500 or so dump the Oil and the Filter and you should be fine!

It's not like you've done a full build where there's lots of crap circulating from assembly.
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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ok. i was just worried about the old oil sludge because that stuff doesn't drain like oil. i.e. i had some in my upper valve cover vent t-pipe and some in the valve cover-block oil vent hose. so i thought there must be some in the block.

i'll just take the cap off every time i run it and let steam out. what's the operating temperature of our engines? i'm guessing the oil is hot enough to boil any water in it...
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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makes sence. thanks. howcome this kind of stuff isnt used in engines all the time? foam to easily? maybe its because it doesnt hold metal particles in suspense well. i dunno..sry for so many questions.

I got it back together and took her for a spin, i notice a considerable power gain from when i was driving on a bad gasket!! it's really nice now. there are some other little issues but i dont mind..i'll probably get a much higher gas mileage too... woohoo!!! :D :D

and as for leaks, i did find one after i posted none. it was the lower radiator outlet! :slap: it was only because i didnt tighten it enough....i didnt want to break it. :D

cheers!! i'll post again tomorrow for sure, this is just a short post to let ya know how it did. time for sleep.