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i have the profec-a already built in but like a hidden stealth install in the cockpit. and once set there´s no need to change settings. since the profec-a has some additional connectors (interaction and option) i thougt one will switch the second boost level. could be connected to the A/T...

did anyone used this before or has a manual where these connectors are described (it´s not in the standard doc!) ? i assume that the high-boost setting can be switched from an external switch but since there are different undescribed connectors i don´t want to destroy something. Thanks John

Lancia used this in the 80th on the Delta Integrale Rallye cars with great success. and Arnout from the Netherlands has already done this on a 2JZ in the last years. you can look at his forum but most threads are not in english unfortunately. start here if you are interested...

one could be the reverse light (coming from tranny) and the second is unused i think http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10354 maybe you find another (bigger, 2 pin) unused connector. on european modells we have a plug for the california egr-temp sensor. that means minimum 2...

you have to take apart the mainshaft and remove every gear so changing syncros only isn´t worth it. work is near the same, no matter how much of the parts you´ll replace

the TRD rims are made by RAYS, so if the proper dimensions aren´t available throug TRD anymore i would try with a RAYS dealer. Otherwise i would go with the TE37 for a lightweight forged rim. http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/indexe.html John

yes bosch is made in germany. http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/components/fuel_pumps/FP-200.pdf and a nice comparison of some fuel pumps is here http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=49&Itemid=65 as you can see, the high-flow walbros are also good enough. but i´m...

looked on the aeromotive web-site just yesterday and saw a new "marine version" of the A1000. This should mean that the pump is good for continous running. i can´t imagine that the standard A1000 is manufactured so bad, that should be more an advertising thing. so i think you can use it also...

i assume one of the two stocker types would fit ? just this question, i have one in a bigger order from overseas and don´t like the surprise factor. Thanks John

the countershaft bearings have some more axial play since that are roller bearings. thats from construction, you can´t make all parts realy fixed, would need some movement to compensate thermal expansion etc. question is: what means A LOT ? The rear bearing should sit properly in the center...

that´s a Dynomaxx i mentioned before, too big and just ugly. But - that was the best regarding noise reduction due to the bigger volume. Same straight-throug design but just bigger. @tekdeus: i´ll measure the tip and outlet distance on my borla today and let you know.

Maybe they are 3,5, I can measure it tomorrow since i bought some of Knightrider´s parts last month (and exactly this muffler). i had choosen also the borla some time ago for it´s "close-to-stock" look and it was easier to take this as to import a new one. But the muffler comes with 2 1/4...

take a look at KnighRider´s Page He had the Borla fitted for some time and then changed to a Dynomaxx UltraFlo cause the Borla was a bit to loud for big german citys. I saw both mufflers in reality on his car, the Borla looks very good in my opinion and is the only aftermarket stainless thats...

as recommended some other times on supramania i would use the center bearing cover from marlincrawler. thats much better then the stock part made from pressed steel. Unfortunately Marlin does´nt do internationally orders so we had to make our own :( It´s in every case worth the additional cost...

that´s the point. i made some of a special brass alloy thats shock proof and self lubricating last year. problem with this material is that it has not the surface hardness (also tested an original thrust washer before) so it´s not realy a long-lasting item. we tested this after 10.000 and 20.000...

I´m in with 1*M/1*L, both lime-green. please re-check shipping cost to germany. Thanks John

maybe someone mixed things up before. or there were different versions over time also. not a real problem.

and thats how it looks on a jdm engine http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18706&highlight=egr+plate should be 25615-43020, could be ordered from toyota. my plate took over a month since it was never ordered in europe before, they had to create a parts record and made a special...

ok, this should make a difference. JDM engines don´t have the egr normally. they have a smaller plate on the egr cooler (like you tried on the photo). don´t know whats on the intake, never seen such an engine in real life. think that could also be different since i´m ordered some gaskets for the...

if i look at your picture it seems that you tried it on the egr cooler. Like the small stock plate on the jdm modells. but thats really the wrong place for THESE plates. would never fit there. easiest way to close this whole directly would be to use the original plate from toyota. There are...