Some R154 Transmission Rebuild In Progress Pictures

bitsnake

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May 10, 2005
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Originally Posted by Reign_Maker
That intimidates the hell out of me... Gimme a motor, I can tear it apart all day... Gimme a tranny like that, and Im like wtf?

So has anyone come up with a solution to the thrust washer weakness?
tsuper92 said:
a couple of guy's where having new thrust washer's made,but didn't want to sell any till they where tested.one thing i noticed taking mine apart,was alot of sludge in the slot's of the thrust washer.i'm sure that would help it starve for oil,but i'm sure people have probably broke them in new rebuilt tranny's too

that´s the point. i made some of a special brass alloy thats shock proof and self lubricating last year. problem with this material is that it has not the surface hardness (also tested an original thrust washer before) so it´s not realy a long-lasting item. we tested this after 10.000 and 20.000 km and i wouldn´t use one much longer. I´m sure this part is nearly unbreakable but has to be changed every season.

On the other side harder materials are more problematic with shock load and possible lack of lubrication, so there´s no 100% perfect solution at all. and no one could be sure that these parts won´t break.

Best bet this time is a coated stock washer in my opinion. We´ll try another material next spring, that would provide surface hardness AND self lubrication (could reach the hardness of the stock washer with much higher strength then the original cast part). Found this during last summer but much to late for testing, so it´ll take until spring/summer 2007 to be sure. The washer itself and also the machine work isn´t such expensive that it´s worth to drive around 10000 km (or miles) only for test-drives.

And the most interesting question would be (maybe someone would like to answer this): what would you pay for a 15-20 US$ part like this washer if it woud be unbreakable ?

John
Dresden, Germany
 

tsuper92

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Apr 7, 2005
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seeing the thrust washer is the biggest thing holding the tranny back from supporting big whp.i would have to say i'd pay $100 for it and be happy.
 

speed

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May 27, 2006
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I'm in the process of rebuilding my R154 too. Right now I'm stuck though, as my gear pullers aren't long enough to get the last bearing and gear off, so its off to a shop tomorrow to get the rest pulled. Oh, and my thrust washer... yea, if someone finds a way to make them not so weak I'd appriciate it, i'll take a picture of whats left of my thrust washer shortly....
 

speed

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May 27, 2006
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oh yes, working on the kitchen table....



you can see one peice of the thrust washer


http://tim.thatstits.com/imagegallery/gallery2/v/supra/transmission/ << more photos and will be updated with progress. I'm a very mechanically inclined person, and taking apart the transmission wasn't that hard, just super scary. I'll be following the TSRM thrice when I put it back together to make sure I didn't leave out anything. eep!
 

bitsnake

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May 10, 2005
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as recommended some other times on supramania i would use the center bearing cover from marlincrawler. thats much better then the stock part made from pressed steel. Unfortunately Marlin does´nt do internationally orders so we had to make our own :( It´s in every case worth the additional cost compared to stock.

i´m sure that some (most?) of the problems come from enhanced play between the gear´s over time. and the bearing cover wears out ! Worked a lot on these transmission the last years and sometimes it looks like the center bearing rotates in his seat, what brings additional wear to the cover. And the stock pressed steel item is´nt as strong as it looks.

Also replace the plastic spacer (beside the first gear needle bearing). Not realy sure, but this looks like a one-way item. It´s not in the standard rebuild sets, but costs near nothing.

If someone makes real power and is in the task of rebuilding the R154 next spring i would be glad to send him 2-3 thrust washers for field test. Washers (and shipping) would be free but this has some drawbacks: car should be a daily driver (test would be useless otherwise) and also used on the strip and the trans should be opened after 10k miles for checking wear on this part. It is no real problem to make this unbreakable, the key is making it also wear resistant.

John
 

tsuper92

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Apr 7, 2005
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MDCmotorsports said:
Can either of you do me a favor?

Measure the bearing ID and OD of the output shaft brg.
the roller bearing on the output shaft in front of the speedo gear?
i.d. 30.53
o.d. 71.96
keith
 

pimptrizkit

thread killer
Dec 22, 2005
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wow, i didn't know this many people toook on the challenge to rebuild their tranny.

i am going to be doing mine when i return back to school, along with loki2420's extra r154,

my instructor, has actuly mentiond some thing about the detents and how alot of people actualy just loose them..

im almost willing to check out those thrust washers, but my car isn't in big power yet, nor do i really want to tear down at the end of summer, possibly sooner..
 

Justin727

T-virus infected
because theres no sense in creating new threads for a certain question when there are a few already out there.
Understand there are pages of related topics but few dealing with just the r154 so instead of adding thru the mess of finding just a few certain threads why not add to one??? doesnt make sense to keep creating new threads for something that has somewhat been discussed. It's called common sense not just putting people thru more searching and in the same there could be someone browsing the forum looking for similar info and cant find it and stumbled across a good thread such as this and it answer their questions.
Believe it or not there are a few people for the sake of not having to deal with name calling will not create a new thread because someone will say search and then you got other people that get bent when someone searches and finds something, tries to add to it and then gets called something.
Forgive me for doing some damn research and this type of nonsense reminds me of how I do not miss supramania.
Thank you for your time
 

jizake1jz

FTMFW
Feb 18, 2007
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i'm bringing it back again :naughty:


i'm building mine right now to try to keep up with a 600hp or so and i just had a few questions. i have heard of people crushing the bearings (zazzn i think), but which one is it that breaks, the one that has more rollers in the rebuild kit? wasn't sure if i should buy the kit or line the bearings up for heavy duty ones at this bearing company in my town.

i also have a cnc shop near by that is willing to make me a new thrust washer and get it heat treated or something to make it stronger... do you think this will work or should i go a different route? any other advice besides what was mentioned?

since heat was mentioned as being a problem, is there anything you can do to keep the trans cooler, any type of coating you can do to the parts or something?

oh and which speedo gear do i want for my r154 if i have a 4.3 rear end? i remember finding info on it a while ago but now i can't even begin to figure it out. here is the link to the tsrm epc page:

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291220/Parts/33403.aspx

i appreciate any help!

-jake

edit:i think its the n=35 one
 
Last edited:

Reign_Maker

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Aug 31, 2005
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Jake, its not the hardness thats the problem with the thrust washer, its lubrication... I had a rockwell hardness test done on base here and was told that the metal was extremely hard... Cryo treating it wouldnt really be an advantage, IMO... I would recommend getting a rebuild kit, MDCmotorsports has a very nice one... I used it in my rebuild...

As for the crushed bearings, the only one I've heard of is the thrust washer... Never heard of any bearings crushing, not to say it couldnt happen, but its not as prominant of a problem...

As far as cooling: I dont know if there is a way to cool the trans fluid... There is no pump in the tranny, so you'd have to do some kind of custom set up with a pump system to circulate the fluid...

I'll let someone else discuss the gearing/speedo thing...
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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It's actually that the part is "sintered" to make it they take metal powder and press it into shape with some heat.

It makes an accurate part that needs little finish machining but it's quite brittle to impacts and will break.

If it were a lubrication issue it's be blue and galled.