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Just get a 2JZ bolt kit. 1JZ and 2JZ, 7M, 4A, all use the SAME BOLTS. It's just a question of how many there are. I've used 2JZ kits on 7Ms, and on 1JZs personally. Remember, 1JZ flywheel = 2JZ bolt pattern.

Q45 TBs are 90MM OD, which is close, but I want something like 102mm OD, with a circular fitting inlet and out.I think this is going to have to be a custom thing after some searching. Here's a picture of a similar Dinan SC kit in an older M5. If you look closely just behind the BOV piping...

I have this idea of putting a 2nd throttle in front of my turbo's intake, after seeing a SC'd M5 do it to eliminate surge with great results. I'm looking for something with a 4" OD, so I would assume around a 90mm ID, and preferrably just a round coupler on both sides. TPS is unnecessary...

I'm just going from what I've heard. Weren't 6Ms rated from teh factory with 190/190?

I have two PS coolers :)....... ....and a hydro fan cooler.... ....and an A/C condensor, intercooler, and radiator. It's pretty packed in the front of my car

If you look at a 6M-GE vs a 7M-GE, the 6M has less horsepower, but more torque. The heads are definitely different, I wouldn't call one better or worse though.

no vids. It was only on the car for a week like that before I went single, and then it was a surge monster.....

My hydrofan still works with my standalone :)

Anti-lag = rediculously retarded ignition timing. I don't know of any piggybacks that can adjust timing enough outside of normal bounds go achieve anti-lag.

I find it varies from motor to motor on 1JZs, depending on the condition. A divorced y-pipe will give you a bunch, but just intake and 3" exhaust shouldn't give you much if any boost creep. If it does creep, it stays under 14psi. If it does hit about 14.5psi, the ECU will stop it from going any...

How much power do you want to make on that turbo? That's the key.

Yes, the more surface area your clutch has, the smoother it's going to be to engage, and the more power it's going to be able to hold. Why people think that their "racing 3 puck" clutch is going to hold any more power then a full-face is beyond me. And about power handling, it's more about the...

only mounted on my car,

Wrong. The vacuum lines are an idle-up valve. When you turn the wheel, the PS pump has an increase in pressure in the HP line, which opens the vacuum valve (it's connected to the HP line). This allows vacuum to run from the intake manifold, to the intake piping just in front of the throttle...

What sort of other specs are you looking for? It's a Garrett GT40-88, with a precision .81 T4 rear housing. Precision may also clip/replace the exhaust wheel, but I'm not entirely sure. Compressor wheel is 64.5mm inducer (AKA a 65mm turbo), 88mm exducer (hence GT40-88). Comes with an un-cut...

Not sure how many layers it is, but it IS a MLS gasket. Atleast 4 layers. Yes it would be fine for a 1.5JZ. I run one on my 1.5JZ right now. I ordered the kit a few years back, and it ended up being $200cad with a crappy canadian exchange rate, and shipping it up here.

You mean '1JZ Soarer' , not '1JZ or Soarer' Yes, the Soarer 1JZ tranny has a different shifter position, but a Supra 1JZ tranny is the same.

I bought the hose so long ago, I couldn't tell you what it was. I made sure it was oil rated, but I have a feeling they may have sent me some water line instead. I don't care anyhow. Honestly the copper hard line is much cleaner looking, and tucks away better.

Mine says 100 octane only........ ....but that's Japanese 100 RON ;)

There's a R154 for sale semi-locally to me for $300, but it'll probably cost a bunch to ship.