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I know my remote start requires me to get out and close the door so that it knows I didn't leave it in gear.

OMG, that's beautiful.

I'm just shooting some ideas, but a MKIV booster MIGHT have a larger bore, or possibly a newer Toyota Truck. Jeff Lange might know the bores of some of these.

yes. that's perfect.

HKS long runner. This picture's a little outdated. Unfortunately, I have a RHD steering box to clear underneath there, to the oil drain has to come up around that.

I have a block-off plate lying around somewhere. I special ordered a whole SSQV mounting kit from HKS. It was bad-ass. unfortunately the parts are scattered around my attic, and I couldn't fint it if I wanted to. It's pretty easy to just make one. Cut a piece of metal, put an o-ring in...

The kits are about $130 from Champion Toyota, and it's WELL worth it. You have to remember you're even getting a stock metal head gasket in that too. Replace the front and rear main seals, definitely. Valve cover seals, and cam seals I would change too because it's really quick to do. Keep...

On my GT40-88, I make positive boost about 2500rpm. By 3000rpm I'm making 5psi, and by 4000 I'm making 15psi. I don't have dyno graphs on my 2J bottom end, but it's in the high 400s, and that's not beginning to get into the turbo's efficiency. Crank it up into teh 20s, and you're making some...

Yeah, that's exactly what Joe's diagram was. That's exactly how I used to run my twin setup too.

hey, I never knew it wouldn't fit until my first oil change. I had to crush the oil filter to get it off, and install a relocation kit.

yes that's what I plan on doing. The car always runs on 94 octane. It's becoming a summer car now. I'm in the process of buying a 7M MKII for winter. However, I highly doubt I will be driving it around a lot on 22psi on my street tires. I break loose at 60mph at 15psi. That's what boost...

Looks like a 1JZ oil bracket. Good idea there. You would have found the 2JZ one interferes with the frame, making it impossible to get the filter off. Is that the oil drain on the side of the turbo there? It's a bad idea to have it at that much of an angle. 45* from bottom max. Too much angle...

it's not the oil pressure, it's the really hot oil in combination to being RIGHT beside the exhaust manifold that does it. No, sorry, no extra 2JZ water necks/pipes, however, my friend has probably a dozen or so 2JZs sitting around his shop, I could ask him.

After having two stainless braided rubber drain lines crack, and spew oil all over everything, I decided to fix it for good: The pictures are sideways. The gray part goes to the turbo, the black goes to the block Copper drain line FTW. Built it for like 5 bucks in parts. I don't...

GT40-88R WILL make 15psi by 4k, guaranteed. My GT40-88 (non bb) makes 15psi by 4k. Has a hell of a lot of low-end too. it'll break loose around corners at 5psi I run crower SC 272 cams, and a huge 24x12x4 intercooler with that. I'm expecting to tune to 22psi this spring, and hopefully break...

the heater system is independent of the motor is it not?

that would work in theory, if you had the boost controller connected to atmosphere instead of the intake manifold. How are you expecting it to bleed off pressure that way? the better way to do it would be to hook it up as per Joe's turbo diagram.

to block off the 1JZ. duh!... ....(I think they call that a 7M)

no, the solenoid is mounted on the steering box, which is on the exhaust side on a RHD car.

if it's by the alt, it's either hydro fan solenoid, or power steering solenoid. As for the two by the MAP sensor, reverse sensor?