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No doubt pressure and flow are related, but pressure != flow. So, 20psi on a CT26 != 500 hp. The CT26 will not maintain 20psi in the upper RPM range unless VERY drastic meassures are taken to do so. I will not win what? Read over what you said and tell me I'm not right. PLEASE

Too bad pressure != flow. But thanks for playing.

wow, 20psi = 500hp. awesome! :nono: Figgie: Sorry... meant to reply not edit.

Maybe I read the question differently then it was intended. I assumed he was talking about safe boost for his engine. In that case 20+ psi given the he has the requirements to do so. As for max safe boost for his turbo, I would say 15-16 psi is fine. Of course dont expect it to last forever as...

No, 20+. I dont see why the engine couldn't handle it given all the other requirements are met. This reality. It has been done. Boost of course will fall off and its pushing the turbo FAR beyond its efficiency island.

Standalone

Jay says the stinger has its own boost source, so I assume it might have its own built in map sensor. I havn't verified it though.

It is capable of it though, and thats what the question is.

contact your retailer?

Did you have an problems with the stinger logger? I think its just the logger on that part, be cause the car ran fine and didn't lean out so I assume the actual ecu functions are fine its something with the logger on it. Are there any firmware updates for the stinger? maybe you need to update...

+4569038409850398453

If the aluminum on the engine isn't melted I dont think it got that hot to mess up the steel in the chassis.

rubbish. 20+ psi on a 95% stock engine (upgraded headstuds/Bolts at least) would be fine. (given of course all the supporting requirements are there).

Yes, you will most likely need them. There are a few power/grounds there that need to be used and also the Main relay switch.

yes, on SF.

NA wheels + 5 lbs would cover it imo. Bust out a scale and weight em if you want. They're not fether weights thats for sure, but they're not sawblades.

Are you sure its the idle valve? I bought one for my car a long time back (was like 300) and it ended up being the ECU its self not the valve. At the toyota dealer they had this thing that would plug into the idle valve and you could manually control it. It had a power and ground aligator...

For swapping a 2jz in, a front clip isn't needed. 99% of the parts needed will have to bo sourced if you have a front clip over a complete engine set.

:withstupi

If you're selling the car, do the NA-T your self. The 400+whp car will be a lot more attractive vs the 150whp car. Even if your profit isn't as big, itd be 100x easier to sell. Unless if the NA price is extremely attractive to MK3 kids (ie 1500 2k MAX)