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Well yes you are right castrol, when installing the timing belt you have to spin the motor a couple of revelotions and check to see if your cam gears line up still. This is another thing that is over looked a lot when the timing belt is taken off for any reason. Could very well be his problem if...

Yes you need to put a timing light on it. Was #1 piston on TDC, when you lined everything up? If not you could be off a little. Also have you adjusted the TPS?

Yes ^^ and you may have already "hammered" the mains, at least the front. Good luck.

Goodridge is what I put on a while age, I know I didn't pay more than $65 for them. A plus over stock as the stock are still rubber and they can expand under pressure. The SS ones gave me a lot better pedal feel.

Eibachs are reasonable and I think one of our vendors can get them for you. It's what I have and happy with them. Still ride nice and a big plus over stock for handling.

Sounds like maybe your throw out bearing maybe hanging up. That must have been a mess when you "shit' in 2nd gear :)

Your original post said you were sure it wasn't the battery that was causing it not to start. Cuel and Forced torque gave you possible reasons for the code 43, there's a couple of more possible reasons for the 43, so I guess to know for sure you'll have to trace it down.

Funny IJ, I hated that movie:)

Read cuel's post :)

You have to take out the bolt, pull the distributor up untill you can feel the gear free up, you don't have to pull it completely out. Then turn the rotor until it's pointing at #1, of course you should have the #1 at TDC, the gears all lined up. So yes you have to do all the steps to get...

Stock gauges are usually not very accurate, so it's probably close as the idle is set by the ECU. If the timing belt was not installed per the TSRM, I.E. turning the motor a couple of revolutions, and checking the marks, it could be off and affect your low end. Pull the cover and check it.

To pull codes you have to use a jumper wire in the same locations you use for checking the base timing, E1 and TE1. You turn the switch on and count the number of times the CEL blinks. BTW if you didn't use the jumper wire to set the timing then it's probably off.

I don't see if you acually set the timing with all the gears lined up , TDC, etc, etc. If you don't have everything on the marks it will not run, no matter were the distributor is set. If you didn't do all that when you put it back together, you need to check out the TSRM to see how to set it...

Coolant keeps flowing out were? And Finnon is right, if you've been running it that way you've probably messed up a really low mileage motor.

If you do all of the above it should start no problem even without somebody moving the distributor. Then you need to put a timing light on it and jumper E1 and Te1 in the diagnostic box. Those compression numbers don't look good :(

Put a good charge on the battery. And check the tension on your belts.

Wow, melted your distributor cap? I've had mine for around 5 years also and never melted the distributor cap. Yes they are an OK header, better to get them ceramic coated if you can swing the bucks.

Well the timing maybe ok if you checked it with a timing light and the jumper wire across E1 and Te1 like it says in the TSRM. The reference to TPS is "throttle position sensor", it also has to be set according to the TSRM. And BTW have you checked for any codes?

Disconnected? Did you plug the line comming from the tube?

LMAO^^ Have you set the TPS according to the TSRM?