ET=estimate trap in drag lingo...do you want to know what size tire is recommended? How much power are you putting out? What driveline mods have you done? Suspension mods? Looking for best 60' times or just something stickier than street tires?
-Chris
My 2nd hand :evil2: ...block will need honed ($5/cyl.) and cleaned and if you're using a mhg, a good milling to a low ra. If you're using forged pistons of a larger than stock size, the cylindars will need bored to the appropriate size as well.
-Chris
It's been brought up a hundred times...please search first. But since I'm here, all it does is shift the powerband to lower rpms, and you will loose top end power. NOT a good idea if you're planning on making more than 300-350rwhp. Just stick with the GTE cams...
-Chris
Is a back box a muffler? Eliminating your cats will definitely help, but if 3" isn't too much more I would recommend that. Why bottleneck your exhaust after the downpipe? You might want to throw a resonator in there too, it won't sound as harsh IMO.
-Chris
I'm pretty sure I've got the fuel where I want it at idle, AFRs are normal now. Only problem is when I hit the gas it bogs down. I don't think the fuel filter has ever been changed, nor the pump. Could either of those do it? I don't have an AFPR yet so I didn't want to get a walbro and blow up...
I'm too cheap to buy a tarp while finishing tweaking things on my motor so lifting the hood off and on every time it starts raining while I'm working on the Supra out there is starting to be a PITA :icon_evil
+1 for carbon fiber hoods
-Chris
I haven't gotten to checking the fuel pressure yet...My car got kicked out of the garage, now I have to work in the driveway and it keeps raining! :rant2:
Anyway, did a vacuum check just now and it comes out perfect at a steady 20lb/hg at idle, when I hit the throttle it drops to 0 or near 0...
I went back and forth with that, after getting the motor in I think I had the turbo off and on 3 more times lol! It's not that bad getting it on with the motor in there. Good luck with it all
-Chris
Well I fixed the running rich problem! Now I'm really starting to think my issues have something to do with the way I plumbed my vacuum manifold. I originally had the MAP sensor plumbed to the vacuum manifold - ran like crap. Switched that to the port on the tb, didn't stumble as much but I...
Could be u-joints. I usually have them pressed in at a local auto store, it's cheap. Is your steering wheel shaking at low speeds only or high speeds too? Warped brake rotors, unbalanced tires, and sticking calipers could also effect the ride, at higher speeds.
-Chris
It depends on how accurate it was put on. When I installed mine I made sure it was as close to dead in the middle as I could get it so I could allow myself enough room to adjust it. While timing it, I turned mine about 1cm clockwise to reach about 10-11* BTDC. Everyone's motor is different...
What's goin on. You're right on getting the timing belt, just make sure you aren't off even a tooth otherwise it won't work right. After getting the timing belt on jumper the diag. box and get your timing light on. Clamp the spark plug clamp over either #1 or #6, same spark, positive wire to...
WeDgE: that sucks about your motor, I hope mine doesn't go kaboom so soon haha, what a waste of 6 months at $6k that would be..
Probably the stupidest thing I could have done, I did, was just that. I wish I got my injectors checked and/or cleaned before I put everything back together. It only...
I just rebuilt the motor, new rings hand filed on every piston...shouldn't be the case but I'll test that tonight too while I'm at it. My only feelings on that is that since the motor isn't broken in yet the rings will not be completely seated so my compression may read a bit lower than normal...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.